Where did you surf today ?

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marauding mullet
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by marauding mullet » Wed Aug 23, 2017 6:02 pm

Yeah some good waves about an hour away, but work means it's weekends only with the rest of the mugs. Hopefully it's temporary
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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Wed Aug 23, 2017 6:46 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:44 pm
I need to be in the water three times minimum a week, or else I get the shits. Still manage to balance work/life/surfing pretty well.
Same

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavethequeen » Wed Aug 23, 2017 6:57 pm

You can definitely get into a bit of a downward spiral with it. Take our hero AJ, for example. His wife works nights, so must have her sleep during the day, leaving AJ to get the kids to school then get himself to the coalface. Weekends? Are you taking the piss? You'll be struck off the dinner party circuit unless you're committing fully to a packed itinerary of clarinet, street dance, vegan cookery, healing and citizenship for your children, so they're out. Days off? Sure. Except, "[angry intake of breath] A day off for surfing? How lovely. And yet those shelves have been sitting there, not put up, for THREE. WHOLE. MONTHS." (Lest we forget, Mrs Johnsen is Scottish and terrifying.) Dishonesty and deceit seems the only way forward

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:01 pm

is this true AJ?

Would your better half rather see you consigned to the purgatory of home renovation rather than see you soar with the eagles getting a few go outs?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:24 pm

When I was a young man, an old Polish friend of mine gave me one piece of advice. It was a piece of advice that I had no value for at the time, and one that you'll all be aware of. I took Jurek's gem, and filed it under, Future Plans That May Or May Not Happen. He escaped from Belsen, so I figure he knew a thing or two. That piece of advice?

Just say, Yes. Another version of this is, Happy wife, happy life.

My Scottish wife, who was dragged up through the Free Presbyterian Church, who would cut the peat on Saturdays when all other kids were playing, she doesn't put her massive Celtic foot down. In fact, it's that she doesn't ever make demands on me that has me going out of my way to do the stuff for her that I know will make her a happier woman. That's what drives me. Maybe I'm a fool and she is a mistress of reverse psychology.

And she isn't driven by trinkets. No. She grew up in a tiny place where the entertainment was anyone passing by who would drop in for a wee dram and a sing-a-long. She knows the value of community and having a home that is welcoming and easy in which to entertain. Where kids can run amok, as best as they can in a built up environment.

She's the first one to say, Take the day off and go surfing. I'm the first one to say, No, not until this is done. And I do the early soccer runs because by the end of the week, she is incredibly sleep deprived and I like to let her sleep. So, I've made my bed and I'm lying in it. It's okay. My initial post was motivated by a fun analogy rather than a whinge.

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:27 pm

I'm not married, but if my wife said 'take the day off and go surfing', that's what I'd do.
Just say yes ;)

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:30 pm

AJ's Mrs has his Real Surf password. Don't believe a word.

I just wanna see you at night
Don't come 'round my house in the day
I love it when we start up a fight
And I love it when the fight ends your way
I love it when you call me names
I love it when you call me names
I love it when you call me names

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:45 pm

No, but she was looking over my shoulder and I'm angling for a weekend away.

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:51 pm

Mollymook. Perfect. Take the Keyo.

bobjs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by bobjs » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:53 pm

This thread has nearly brought a tear to my eye. I haven't surfed since the last school holidays. You can definitely get in a downward spiral, making it even harder to raise the effort to go out. Other forms of exercise help in the short term.

Try an overnighter AJ. Late arvo surf, sleep in your car, an early, then home by lunchtime in the mood for love.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:08 pm

ajohnsen wrote:
Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:45 pm
No, but she was looking over my shoulder and I'm angling for a weekend away.
Crawler, AJ.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:23 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:40 pm
One of the most unexpectedly happy discoveries of my surfing life as `i became a husband and a work-a-daddy was just how little time I needed to spend actually surfing to get stoked and maintain life as a hardcore surfer while pursuing other interests and being there for my wife and kids.

As long as I keep it regular and keep everything dialed in then sometimes I only need a couple of waves.
Correct. I had bus trips followed by a one wave surf followed by bus trips when I lived in Darlo with two babies and a depressed wife.
Some of the best one waves of my life
Erase.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:23 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:40 pm
One of the most unexpectedly happy discoveries of my surfing life as `i became a husband and a work-a-daddy was just how little time I needed to spend actually surfing to get stoked and maintain life as a hardcore surfer while pursuing other interests and being there for my wife and kids.

As long as I keep it regular and keep everything dialed in then sometimes I only need a couple of waves.
Correct. I had bus trips followed by a one wave surf followed by bus trips when I lived in Darlo with two babies and a depressed wife.
Some of the best one waves of my life
Erase.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:24 pm

Fcuck this cheap website shits me
Erase.

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:28 pm

So is that two waves or one?

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:44 pm

The Mighty Sunbird wrote:
Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:23 pm
steve shearer wrote:
Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:40 pm
One of the most unexpectedly happy discoveries of my surfing life as `i became a husband and a work-a-daddy was just how little time I needed to spend actually surfing to get stoked and maintain life as a hardcore surfer while pursuing other interests and being there for my wife and kids.

As long as I keep it regular and keep everything dialed in then sometimes I only need a couple of waves.
Correct. I had bus trips followed by a one wave surf followed by bus trips when I lived in Darlo with two babies and a depressed wife.
Some of the best one waves of my life
Of course, AJ is in his 50s, has young kids, is an half an hour or so from the beach (subject to getting a park) and his wife works the night shift. I reckon a short stroll to a local coffee emporium might be a pretty sound and convenient sanity option.

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Rustt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Rustt » Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:07 am

Surfed the local point was about 5 foot was feeling a bit lazy and it was a bit windy so I took my 8'8" out ,seriously over gunned. Was good fun got a few good barrels and then took one big one that I got clipped on and just as I was having the realization that rolling around with a board that size was dangerous I felt my elbow and hand get smashed.
Consider myself very lucky as fin cut through my wettie and just grazed my arm but then smashed my hand and pressed the futures fin 1/2 an inch into my board, hurt a bit. As usual wife considered it a self inflicted wound. :)
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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:07 am

Ouch!

Big boards = bigger injuries.

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