Where did you surf today ?

[Drailed]

Its a horrible blue, way too dark. Needs to be more pastel.

[buddy]

I always imagined the Dionysian hand jive to be coming off the top rather than the bottom turn.

[Davros]

I love that.

[steve shearer]

make it a bit more psychedelic.

[Hatchnam]

Ok. Leave it with me

[Drailed]

If we all get one it will be like a secret handshake between Fremasons when we see someone wearing one.

[offshore1]

Who's the surfer? It's not Steve, he's a goofy.

[steve shearer]

looks like Terry Fitz

[offshore1]

ok, makes sense, that's who you were referring to in that quote I think I remember.

[Hatchnam]

looks like Terry Fitz

Bingo

[Hatchnam]

[Davros]

Top

[crabmeat thompson]

i'm so amped from autumn i feel like i could run through a brick wall.

[Nick Carroll]

well I had more fun today

Got out a sharp lil MC round pin, I sorta had it fixed in my head as a tube rider more than anything, but fcuk it felt good in today's super playful mixed up slightly softened 3-4' beachies. The side fins are set a tiny bit straighter for some reason (not my thinking) so it draws a longer line, but that fits the board's rocker lines too. Great little board for a muscly tropical reef.

[crabmeat thompson]

hey steve, do you reckon this 5 minute MS paint rendition would look tits on a tshirt?

this is the one. just replace that dark blue with a lighter blue, and replace the aqua with a green.

keep the font yellow. but remove all the words after, "full dionysian".


you're welcome.

[steve shearer]

yeah.......and change the font.\\

today is the first day all Autumn where I've drained the tank dry. All season I've deliberately under-surfed, done my kettlebells and come to the next days surf as fresh as a daisy.
today I surfed till i was so spent I could barely paddle in and my back was so torqued it took me half an hour to pop-up.

I feel like I've done a years worth of surfing in the last 3 months.

rest day tomoz.

[steve shearer]

but i'm gunna go chase jewfish tonight , fcuk yeah, insane tides.

[crabmeat thompson]

I used this today for the maiden run.




5'11 x 19 1/8 x 2 1/2

deep single into a shallow double with boxy rails and a flattish deck. Super sharp off the top, it just flicks around with no force applied, but stays under your feet.

trialled some fins from a guy in scotland who makes his own futures. The sides are almost like a chunky quad fin. smaller than twins, but bigger than a standard thruster set, and the back one is a pure (narrower) thruster rear fin.

On one backhand wave I hit the lip, and the board just shook loose off the roof - maybe even got the rear fin free, and my legs kinda did a crossover. but what stunned me was, i actually increased speed through all of this, not lost it.

not sure if its the fins or the board. but I like the combo.

could be a magic little setup. But then again these fast hollow waves, any board can feel good. I look forward to getting it out in some high tide fat and really leaning on a rail and seeing what happens.