Where did you surf today ?

[Nick Carroll]

ha ha Snapper last night and this morning on the 6'4" '89 model AB

A bit south angle but heaps of waves this morning and more sand now, Snapper is such a fcuken cakewalk when the circus isn't in town. Hardly anyone can paddle, they all get dragged off down the line

I hadn't surfed this board for almost 27 years, it's quite different to a modern board, a lot straighter rocker with vee combo through the channels and a long nose. I was thinking, well this could be really shit. But first moment my feet touched the deck I remembered everything about it. Like a full body memory. 1989/90, our first child was a tiny baby and we hadn't gone to CA yet, I think that was the last time I was normal.

[crabmeat thompson]

ha ha Snapper last night and this morning on the 6'4" '89 model AB

A bit south angle but heaps of waves this morning and more sand now, Snapper is such a fcuken cakewalk when the circus isn't in town. Hardly anyone can paddle, they all get dragged off down the line

I hadn't surfed this board for almost 27 years, it's quite different to a modern board, a lot straighter rocker with vee combo through the channels and a long nose. I was thinking, well this could be really shit. But first moment my feet touched the deck I remembered everything about it. Like a full body memory. 1989/90, our first child was a tiny baby and we hadn't gone to CA yet, I think that was the last time I was normal.

so did the feelings of being once normal, come flooding back?

[Davros]

A twinkle in her daddies eye

[Nick Carroll]

ha ha Snapper last night and this morning on the 6'4" '89 model AB

A bit south angle but heaps of waves this morning and more sand now, Snapper is such a fcuken cakewalk when the circus isn't in town. Hardly anyone can paddle, they all get dragged off down the line

I hadn't surfed this board for almost 27 years, it's quite different to a modern board, a lot straighter rocker with vee combo through the channels and a long nose. I was thinking, well this could be really shit. But first moment my feet touched the deck I remembered everything about it. Like a full body memory. 1989/90, our first child was a tiny baby and we hadn't gone to CA yet, I think that was the last time I was normal.

so did the feelings of being once normal, come flooding back?

Yeah a bit, that's what prompted me to write that line. Mind-memory can betray you over time, you make shit up etc and the memory changes, but body-memory can take you right to the moment and the state of mind. It caught me unawares, I didn't expect that.

[Drailed]

Get barrelled Nick?

[Davros]

Manly, was quite a few rolling in, easily over head. Typical duck diving paddle fest as per.

[crabmeat thompson]

Grabbing a coffee after the surf
A grungy blonde in double denim pulls up alone in a rusty camper van
Besides the boards on the roof there is a twin keel fish in front seat

Where was she 20 years ago??

there's not many, but they do exist.

[crabmeat thompson]

but you can't impregnate a unicorn!

[steve shearer]

are you sure? Has anyone tried?

[crabmeat thompson]

No. lets be the first!

this will be bigger than neil armstrong.

[Beanpole]

ha ha Snapper last night and this morning on the 6'4" '89 model AB

A bit south angle but heaps of waves this morning and more sand now, Snapper is such a fcuken cakewalk when the circus isn't in town. Hardly anyone can paddle, they all get dragged off down the line

I hadn't surfed this board for almost 27 years, it's quite different to a modern board, a lot straighter rocker with vee combo through the channels and a long nose. I was thinking, well this could be really shit. But first moment my feet touched the deck I remembered everything about it. Like a full body memory. 1989/90, our first child was a tiny baby and we hadn't gone to CA yet, I think that was the last time I was normal.

so did the feelings of being once normal, come flooding back?

Yeah a bit, that's what prompted me to write that line. Mind-memory can betray you over time, you make shit up etc and the memory changes, but body-memory can take you right to the moment and the state of mind. It caught me unawares, I didn't expect that.

That's one of those things about surfing.....I guess.

[JaM71]

Snapper is such a fcuken cakewalk when the circus isn't in town. Hardly anyone can paddle, they all get dragged off down the line.

Yeah, that's because some journo takes a bunch of 5"6 tomos & hypto kryptos to an exotic location, shoots a video and prints a board review in a surfing magazine about how we all should be riding the shortest board possible! Nice work Nick, but I am onto to your cunning plan.

[Nick Carroll]

No. lets be the first!

this will be bigger than neil armstrong.

We could turn it into a children's book for the ages

"Brian Impregnates A Unicorn"

[swvic]

Not bad, but Sick Carroll's post would've been a better page topper

[swvic]

[crabmeat thompson]

No. lets be the first!

this will be bigger than neil armstrong.

We could turn it into a children's book for the ages

"Brian Impregnates A Unicorn"

Come on ... this is clearly Shearer territory if there ever was such a place.

[Hatchnam]

Long day. Sandon, then boneyards, then south werri point, and just out from redsands. First time I've surfed redsands. Only headhigh sets but holy shit it packs some punch. The east in the swell was making things sketchy

[Drailed]

4 surfs, farkin hell. Glad i didnt go.. i'd be fccckn ruined.

The awkwardness of the drive home trying to sustain conversation as my brain shuts down into hibernation mode.