Where did you surf today ?

[Drailed]

What a bunch of fccxkn softcocks. Paddle out and have a dig.

[Hatchnam]

When we surf big waves

exactly. He's shitscared of three foot voodoo but here he is dickswinging that he'd have a dig at sunset. Figure that out

#actualretard

[BA]

What a bunch of fccxkn softcocks. Paddle out and have a dig.

No worries Laird.

[Drailed]

I actually surfed with Laird once, he said I had a nice style.

[channels]

I actually surfed with Laird once, he said I had a nice style.

Surfed the internet with him?

[Over55yrs]

I was looking at the current map thinking how do I remember all this detail if I got caught inside somewhere and where would the Sunset Rip take me............all too complicated so best stay on the sand with the other Realsurfers

[Beanpole]

Nah....you just go out and get seriously fcuked up.....possibly drown.....it's very soulful for the mature novice.

[offshore1]

Gotta love the loof. Pisstaker without peer.
As for myself, unfortunately there would no doubt be reticulation issues calling for my attention.

[Nick Carroll]

+ 2 x infinity. I actually got a glum feeling thinking about getting caught on the inside and just giving up.

I was just looking at foamys current map. What a deadset prick of a swim in, feeder rips pulling you into main rips etc... I feel sick just thinking about it.

ah it's not that big a deal, you just go with the water into the hole on the point side of Val's reef and swim to the beach, it takes about five minutes or a bit more. That's usually where your board ends up anyway, unless you're really wide in the lineup when you lose it and it's a north swell, like what happened to shearer when he had to swim to Kammieland.

I dunno, maybe I am an idiot but that type of surfing appeals to me, like hunting a big lineup and paying a price occasionally, but also kind of relishing the price.

You know what, when Sunset really is a cnut of a joint is in a large new 17 second west swell and not that much wind, and the rip turns and pulls back across the back of the lineup toward the point. So the rip is constantly moving you back toward outside Boneyards and big thick waves are tempting you to go that way as well. That can be scary as, if you're not really careful you end up stuck on the other side of the west peak and trying to paddle back against the current. There's really no way out of that situation, other than trying to sneak in and catch a smaller one off the point and coming back around. Get caught by a set and it is a for sure board-breaking hold down bashing. It's the only three wave hold down I've ever had and I don't want another one.

[steve shearer]

I'm wondering whether Hawaii, as a concept and a foundational myth used by the surf media and professional surfing, is done. Whether the old girl has just had too many coats of lipstick applied and now can't turn a single trick. it's been a good run. Flogged by surf media for what, 50 years? The seven mile miracle, the mecca of the sport, etc etc etc.

I'm seeing recreational interest in surfing Hawaii, apart from some splash and giggle at Waikiki so one can say they have surfed in Hawaii, as at subterranean levels. Even the mags this year seemed to have really lost interest....I know it was a pretty shit season and all and Jaws will continue on as the premier big wave spot but as far as the North Shore goes and the stereotypical "Hawaii" issue, it all seemed very subdued. Comatose even.

I think the Mentawaiis and Indo drained alot of the lifeforce out of it, for competent surfers and the Maldives for intermediates. Really, the North Shore is a sketchy deal for the recreational surfer. The Big 3: Pipeline, Waimea and Sunset are not waves most people will want to surf. And the rest of the North Shore is pretty ....I don't know, there are tons of surf spots with tons of surf but nothing most people would really want to travel to surf. Haleiwa is a great wave when it's big but with horrific consequences. Jockos , Lanis, Alligator Rock etc etc.

In the 8-9 years I've been on RealSurf I can't recall a single person planning and executing the classic surf pilgrimage to the North Shore during surf season. Maybe Croissant came the closest? And what happened there......he couldn't get out of Waikiki.

What do you think Nick? Is it dead? Dead as Europe?

[Drailed]

Angry locals, full of yanks.

[BA]

+ 2 x infinity. I actually got a glum feeling thinking about getting caught on the inside and just giving up.

I was just looking at foamys current map. What a deadset prick of a swim in, feeder rips pulling you into main rips etc... I feel sick just thinking about it.

ah it's not that big a deal, you just go with the water into the hole on the point side of Val's reef and swim to the beach, it takes about five minutes or a bit more. That's usually where your board ends up anyway, unless you're really wide in the lineup when you lose it and it's a north swell, like what happened to shearer when he had to swim to Kammieland.

I dunno, maybe I am an idiot but that type of surfing appeals to me, like hunting a big lineup and paying a price occasionally, but also kind of relishing the price.

You know what, when Sunset really is a cnut of a joint is in a large new 17 second west swell and not that much wind, and the rip turns and pulls back across the back of the lineup toward the point. So the rip is constantly moving you back toward outside Boneyards and big thick waves are tempting you to go that way as well. That can be scary as, if you're not really careful you end up stuck on the other side of the west peak and trying to paddle back against the current. There's really no way out of that situation, other than trying to sneak in and catch a smaller one off the point and coming back around. Get caught by a set and it is a for sure board-breaking hold down bashing. It's the only three wave hold down I've ever had and I don't want another one.

Yeah you're not selling it.

[steve shearer]

Angry locals, full of yanks.

Not as angry as the Maldives.

[Drailed]

Lol.

Maldives is amazing.

[steve shearer]

for adult learners.

[Drailed]

Amazing waves full stop. Not everyone can charge 4ft cloudbreak on 8ft guns Stevie.

[steve shearer]

hahaha, very good Loof.

Would you ever consider a pilgrimage to the North Shore? You can hire a "beachboy" to take you tandem surfing at Waikiki if you're a bit nervous.

[Drailed]

Yeah I'd go, would I surf pipe? Probably not.