Where did you surf today ?

[channels]

Longie on the JD.

Fun until the tide swallowed it up.

[BA]

What time? I was out at 6.30 and it was a circus. SUP's, mals, surf skis (lots), guys on big sort of flat water skis going very straight, lots of kooks flying towards you, and a weird chick on a mal in long wetsuit leggings and a floral low cut t shirt. I thought I was at Bondi.

[Beanpole]

Actually it sounds like Bondi wasn't as bad as that. Crappy conditions though. Bit of swell with a bit of push behind it. Crowded not that many kooks where I was. Really getting sick of people who decide they will have a crack at paddling for a wave you've allready started paddling for so you end up being shoulder to shoulder with them. The number of times out there you see five people all turn and paddle for the first wave of a set leaving absolutely no one....except me in position for wave number two and three.

[channels]

What time? I was out at 6.30 and it was a circus. SUP's, mals, surf skis (lots), guys on big sort of flat water skis going very straight, lots of kooks flying towards you, and a weird chick on a mal in long wetsuit leggings and a floral low cut t shirt. I thought I was at Bondi.

Got there about 6.45 and saw a lot of those in front of the car park. Wandered down just south of the lugga, a few empty(ish) peaks down there.

[black duck]

Sth coast is tiny windblown mush. Not really surfable.

[steve shearer]

How's the banks up there ? At that racist spot?

[Nick Carroll]

ha ha ha I'm in Hawaii and it's bombing

[foamy]

So Nick, where did you surf, what board did you select and how was it?

[Cranked]

Bastard. I spent the morning fixing our reticulation in the 35C heat.

[Nick Carroll]

"Select", whew what a word

Yesterday I "selected" a 7'0" six channel pintail and surfed rising swell Sunset for three hours. The surf started out about 4' and finished about 8' but very powerful. Got a few waves at the end that really made me stand up and go, stand-up barrels that drew a lot of water off the reef. One, I came out of a barrel into a sucked out closeout section and sorta free fell to the base, luckily made it. I saw a few mates, BL and RCJ on the beach before I went out and Rod Kirsop in the lineup riding a fucken big red Brewer. The constancy of the North Shore always gets me, like the first time Rod came here we stayed together in a Kui condo in 1982. Since he is now an obstetric specialist I won't go into the various things we got up to. Nor the bikini model next door who did not mind me climbing over the lanai at night. God help us all.

Today it was kind of bombing early, Sunset semi out of hand. There is a pro junior event on hold at Sunset and there was a bunch of people gathered around wondering if to go or not. Ian Walsh came in from testing it and was a bit like, "No". It looked to me like fun for a free surf but you might get a wave an hour and spend the rest of it dodging 15' clean up sets. Waimea was breaking in a sort of half-cocked way. I was interviewing someone at 11am so did that and came back to Sunset about 2pm hoping to surf but it was still chaotic. V frustrating. Eventually I gave up and went to Waimea where about 70 people were hassling over a 15' set every 15 minutes. 10' Brewer single fin. That last Eddie has spawned a whole new level of Waimea Rubberneck. It was fun working the crowd but you know, you surf Waimea hoping to get a bigger wave than you've caught and that wasn't gonna happen.

Swell is supposed to drop considerably overnight so I'm cracking Sunset at dawn to beat the contest, 8'0" six channel pin.

[Cranked]

Epic! Shearer would go!

Me? No! Ummmm, yeah, that's right, I gotta work on the retic a bit more.

[BA]

4ft Sunset sounds kinda fun.

8ft Sunset sounds kinda pants-shitting.

[foamy]

Waimea on a 10' Brewer single fin. That's old school.

[Davros]

"70 people hassling over 15 foot sets".

Lol, how the hell does that work?

[channels]

Fun free surf is getting one wave an hour and spend the rest of the time dodging 15 foot clean up sets?

[offshore1]

Epic! Shearer would go!

Me? No! Ummmm, yeah, that's right, I gotta work on the retic a bit more.

I'd padde out but I probably should catch up on my reticulation too, whatever that is.

[Slobadan Madicubich]

Epic! Shearer would go!

Me? No! Ummmm, yeah, that's right, I gotta work on the retic a bit more.

I'd padde out but I probably should catch up on my reticulation too, whatever that is.

its what rich people call a sprinkler

[Cranked]

Well yes, but around 50 of them. The majority of houses in Perth have them, otherwise you would be living in a dessicated dust bowl