Where did you surf today ?

[foamy]

Nick was talking about writing a book like that

I feel like I could write a book based on virtually nothing other than going for surfs. Not some cheesy allegorical thing either, just actual surfs, the things that happen during surfs. Fcuk! I'm gonna have a crack at that.

William Finnegan did an awesome job of it.

[Beanpole]

The trouble would be......I imagine.....that one persons narrative would not necessarily be easy to relate to by other lesser beings. Nick used to write well about the act of surfing.....but I rarely understood a lot of his descriptions of how boards went.

[The Mighty Sunbird]

I was talking to an ex pro skater a while back. Still skating for fun at Bondi.
But his girlfriend was mad at him because, having rooted his way across North America for years on the pro tour, he had achieved tachyphylaxis or something, he had become quite ambivalent about sex.

[batoes]

I tried to touch on it in the book i wrote last year. The character, Neptune, quit the tour because he found competition surfing 'soulless' and equates it to a job, although it isn't the real reason. He was based on a guy i knew growing up who was a fantastic surfer, but struggled with the professional surfing scene outside of the water.

Personally, I've always found the whole 'free surfer' sponsored thing really interesting. I once watched a clip that kind of showed a 'day in the life of Joel Tudor'. He drops his kid off to school, surfs, does some jujitsu, surfs, picks his kid up, surfs... it was quite unsettling how much he surfed.

You're right Steve. While i'm sure they get jazzed about great waves and exotic locations, there is something about the rest of us, who work, raise children, pay taxes and sometimes fight for waves and time in the water. When we get that epic wave, as Beerfan said, it stays with you. I know for me, personally, when i'm in the grind and just trying to get through the week, those 'epic' snapshots are often the things i think about. Then i think about the next session i'll get and hope there will be another snapshot to lock in. Because Rasta and co have them consistently and are just part of what they do - there must be a difference.

That said, i think the free surfing sponsored guys are probably happier than most game show hosts.

[offshore1]

What about a professional porn star as an analogy?
Casanova I suppose could have been loosely classified as a Rasta style soul sex practitioner.

[Beanpole]

Then there are the two bit gigilos and of course lonely idle wankery.

[offshore1]

Yes, I can see parallels aplenty.

The analogy is just getting better.

[Biggun]

here's an analogy. I have always been a keen cyclist. A few years ago I worked 12 months as a bike courier. I was fast when I started but after a few months I was stupid fast, a pro essentially. But cycling morphed from a pastime into a job and my office was my handlebars.

After reaching that level, my approach to cycling has never been the same.

I think once your passion becomes your job, a little bit of stoke dies.

[Beerfan]

Yeah, but would you give up a little Stoke in exchange for surfing Indo perfection for months a year, while getting paid big $$$$ and not having to work a normal job?

Bloody hell lol

[Drailed]

Comparing being a bike courier to a free surfer such as Rasta is a piss poor analogy.

[RickyG]

I think once your passion becomes your job, a little bit of stoke dies.

Absolutely. Another example for me was when I was trying to get a start as a journalist. I was a live music freak so started reviewing bands for the street press to get my name in print. I soon realised there's a huge difference going to a gig for fun and going to do a job (of sorts).

[Hatchnam]

Comparing being a bike courier to a free surfer such as Rasta is a piss poor analogy.

That post proved one thing though. That alexissanchez isn't Andy. If it were, there'd have been a following bout of dick waving about premium cycling equipment and shortest cycle times

[foamy]

If we had to write a 300 word review after every time we surfed, we'd all give it away.

[Trev]

This is interesting. My other love, as many of you know, is motor sport. In particular, rallying. During my 20's and 30's I drove plenty of rallies. Along the way, to offset some of the costs I started writing for specialist magazines and a Brisbane Sunday paper. (about 500 words in the Sun. Up to 3 or 4 times that in magazines. Sometimes 3 or 4 stories about the same event. Which had to look and sound different.
I have to say I never felt I lost any enjoyment in competing while I was doing this.
But, to be fair, it wasn't a full time job. It provided about 25% of my annual income.

[Beanpole]

Comparing being a bike courier to a free surfer such as Rasta is a piss poor analogy.

That post proved one thing though. That alexissanchez isn't Andy. If it were, there'd have been a following bout of dick waving about premium cycling equipment and shortest cycle times

When the real analogy would be with being a sales rep for a middle ranking range of surf related merchandise.

[Davros]

Surfed DY - chilled compared to yesterday

[floppymorals]

Narragansett Town Beach!

[Hatchnam]

From where it's situated, it looks like it'd need a hurricane to kick it into gear ?