Where did you surf today ?
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- el rancho
- Duke Status
- Posts: 12544
- Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:22 am
- Location: taking a shit in the dunes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I'll buy you a carton if you bomb the hill at lennox on that skateboard
must be filmed by a third party or a go pro
must be filmed by a third party or a go pro
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45304
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
piece of piss Rancho. save your money mate.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Among hordes of frauds near Canggu. They've got the boards they've got the bods they've got the hair and the bikes with racks and the tats. Almost all northern hemisphere denizens.
The euros, being seriously schooled in cool, have ditched the mini mal/fun boards they should be riding and swagger with short boards under their gym, not paddle, toned biceps. Men and women alike.
Asked a guy renting boards on the beach why no one was on a sweet fun peak further out and he just shrugged and smiled. Seems a bit over head high and actually getting chunky wedgy when it runs into the shorey is too confronting. So had fun by myself as the poseur pack looked on. King Kook!
Is it the same on the Bukit these days?
Steve purchased what you wanted.
And has it made news in Oz that magic mushrooms have finally been outlawed in Bali?
The euros, being seriously schooled in cool, have ditched the mini mal/fun boards they should be riding and swagger with short boards under their gym, not paddle, toned biceps. Men and women alike.
Asked a guy renting boards on the beach why no one was on a sweet fun peak further out and he just shrugged and smiled. Seems a bit over head high and actually getting chunky wedgy when it runs into the shorey is too confronting. So had fun by myself as the poseur pack looked on. King Kook!
Is it the same on the Bukit these days?
Steve purchased what you wanted.
And has it made news in Oz that magic mushrooms have finally been outlawed in Bali?
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45304
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
bukit is a different beast.
canggu is the epicentre of that euro scene.
thanks Bommie. I'm in Sydney next Fri/Sat. Could I buy you a beer?
canggu is the epicentre of that euro scene.
thanks Bommie. I'm in Sydney next Fri/Sat. Could I buy you a beer?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
drove around the northside with Tom and Ross hoping for something. We stood on the Long Reef sand dune watching the german bank fail to rise to the occasion.
That bombie field is epic. The Bank needs an acute south swell to run up the reef finger and wedge up to its true dimensions. But the swell today wasn't nearly big or strong enough.
When Sydney is in the midst of one of those amazing periods of swell, it's such a great surfing zone, I can only imagine what it must have looked like in the bug seasons past, like 1951-4 or the early 30s. Crazy cyclone paths and massive sth swells.
Ross drove 11hrs on a hunch. now he's driving another nine hours back to Melbourne to catch a plane. madness.
That bombie field is epic. The Bank needs an acute south swell to run up the reef finger and wedge up to its true dimensions. But the swell today wasn't nearly big or strong enough.
When Sydney is in the midst of one of those amazing periods of swell, it's such a great surfing zone, I can only imagine what it must have looked like in the bug seasons past, like 1951-4 or the early 30s. Crazy cyclone paths and massive sth swells.
Ross drove 11hrs on a hunch. now he's driving another nine hours back to Melbourne to catch a plane. madness.
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- Harry the Hat
- Posts: 2599
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:29 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
So your wed/thurs call made above Nick turned out to be a bit of a fizzer then?
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
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- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
it was a fizzer here too.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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- barnacle
- Posts: 1684
- Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:01 pm
- Location: Devil Gate Drive
Re: Where did you surf today ?
there were plenty of solid, sizeable waves around sydney on wednesday and thursday. it might not have been as big as monday's peak, but that was no fizzer.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
It's all relative PP. when they were forecasting 8ft plus reefs @ 15 seconds, and it only gets to 4ft, it's fizzer.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Not totally, it was def bigger and thicker but it was also shittier. Winds went weird and everything turned to crap. This mornings pretty good though.Donweather wrote:So your wed/thurs call made above Nick turned out to be a bit of a fizzer then?
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- barnacle
- Posts: 1684
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
i do have very low standards, it's true.Braithy wrote:It's all relative PP. when they were forecasting 8ft plus reefs @ 15 seconds, and it only gets to 4ft, it's fizzer.
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- barnacle
- Posts: 1684
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
i reckon that was more than 4ft...i have now have an extra-long leggie.
if my board is pearling all the time does that mean too late a take off? too short a board for the conditions? crap surfing skills?
if my board is pearling all the time does that mean too late a take off? too short a board for the conditions? crap surfing skills?
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Whadya mean by pearling?
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- barnacle
- Posts: 1684
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
the nose going underwater on takeoffBraithy wrote:Whadya mean by pearling?
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Assuming you're right back on your tailpad, put more weight on your backfoot?
What kind of board you riding? If your board was too small, you'd be getting caught up in the lip. Sounds like you're not setting your rail or the board's concave isn't suited to the waves you were riding ie flat rockered, wide-nosed boards in sucky/ hollow waves make it pretty hard to get shacked on.
What kind of board you riding? If your board was too small, you'd be getting caught up in the lip. Sounds like you're not setting your rail or the board's concave isn't suited to the waves you were riding ie flat rockered, wide-nosed boards in sucky/ hollow waves make it pretty hard to get shacked on.
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- barnacle
- Posts: 1684
- Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:01 pm
- Location: Devil Gate Drive
Re: Where did you surf today ?
ok that makes sense...
i'm riding a 5'10" swallowtail kneeboard...it's "front foot" style surfing, so no leaning back on the tail. it's my "summer" board. fairly flat rocker and not much concave.
my rounded pin that i use in bigger waves is fin chopped and out of action. too damaged for me to repair. too broke to pay for someone to repair.
maybe i'll have to repair it myself. but it's such a magical board, i'd hate to fck it up.
i'm riding a 5'10" swallowtail kneeboard...it's "front foot" style surfing, so no leaning back on the tail. it's my "summer" board. fairly flat rocker and not much concave.
my rounded pin that i use in bigger waves is fin chopped and out of action. too damaged for me to repair. too broke to pay for someone to repair.
maybe i'll have to repair it myself. but it's such a magical board, i'd hate to fck it up.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26042
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Ah, there you go then mate. Flat rockered boards are harder in hollow overhead waves. Sounds like you're paddling into them just fine, but the rocker & nose lift isn't letting you get into them.
There's a few really clips on youtube for board repair, I think surfline even have a few in their board section.
If you're gonna give it a go check them out. I just patched up my racing ski using an epoxy tutorial on youtube. Worked a treat. Board feels exactly the same, and minus the bad colour match I did with the paint, you'd hardly even know she had a hole the size of my fist punched through it.
There's a few really clips on youtube for board repair, I think surfline even have a few in their board section.
If you're gonna give it a go check them out. I just patched up my racing ski using an epoxy tutorial on youtube. Worked a treat. Board feels exactly the same, and minus the bad colour match I did with the paint, you'd hardly even know she had a hole the size of my fist punched through it.
- Animal_Chin
- Local
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
There's a term I've never heard before.purple pyramids wrote:the nose going underwater on takeoffBraithy wrote:Whadya mean by pearling?
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