Where did you surf today ?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Seems to be a good few around at the moment, Sunday at NA and spotter plane saw a big White off Palmy pool.
Seems to be a good few around at the moment, Sunday at NA and spotter plane saw a big White off Palmy pool.
“I am getting wealthy in ways that don’t count at the bank”
- Gerry Lopez
- Gerry Lopez
Re: Where did you surf today ?
i paddled, and i paddled. then i sat and rested. then i paddled more, and more. again, i sat and rested. then i paddled and paddled and paddled. then i sat on me 6'9 and rested again.
i fcuking paddled a lot today.
i fcuking paddled a lot today.
signatures, finally got it covered.
- Surfin Turf
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
heard that too ... try and keep them up there if you could ...BDL77 wrote:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Seems to be a good few around at the moment, Sunday at NA and spotter plane saw a big White off Palmy pool.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
^^ anyhow i've just had lunch and a little rest, not feeling very rejuvernated but plus is got boat for this arvo
from what im looking at one of those "windows" shearer was talking about has just popped up.
from what im looking at one of those "windows" shearer was talking about has just popped up.
signatures, finally got it covered.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
4ft+ @ 9 secs with the odd 6ft every 10 minutes or so. CHAOS due to the wind, much like what Iggy surfed this morning only bigger.
Huge sweep, E gale and an E swell making it difficult to stay in position, let alone pick anything off.
Most of it closing out but if you waited for the bigger sets it looked like you'd be able to get a quick turn in before it pitched, ran for a 30 metres or so and shut down.
Paddled out in a mass of whitewater and foam, trying to stay in position, trying to stay in position.
Waited out a couple of sets for the bomb I knew was coming, I'd seen them from the beach getting changed.
Looking paddling, looking paddling … geez I'm fcuked already.
Then it starts building further out, I watch it for a bit and turn to paddle.
Late drop, bottom turn straight back up the face and smack the bejebus out of the pitching lip, but now I'm to far behind it to make the barrel . . BOOM! it shuts down on my head and I get worked.
Huge smile when I surface, no one around at all to share it with. That was so much fun, I'm going back out for another.
Ten more minutes of paddling paddling, did I mention paddling? I get a second shot, except this time I just take the drop, grab rail, race it for about 30 metres inside heaven and manage to squeeze out the doggy door as it shuts down.
Two more waves, two more beatings on the shutdown because I just can't squeeze out fast enough, and I don't care.
Keeping an eye on the wind, might head back down later if it drops below hurricane force
Huge sweep, E gale and an E swell making it difficult to stay in position, let alone pick anything off.
Most of it closing out but if you waited for the bigger sets it looked like you'd be able to get a quick turn in before it pitched, ran for a 30 metres or so and shut down.
Paddled out in a mass of whitewater and foam, trying to stay in position, trying to stay in position.
Waited out a couple of sets for the bomb I knew was coming, I'd seen them from the beach getting changed.
Looking paddling, looking paddling … geez I'm fcuked already.
Then it starts building further out, I watch it for a bit and turn to paddle.
Late drop, bottom turn straight back up the face and smack the bejebus out of the pitching lip, but now I'm to far behind it to make the barrel . . BOOM! it shuts down on my head and I get worked.
Huge smile when I surface, no one around at all to share it with. That was so much fun, I'm going back out for another.
Ten more minutes of paddling paddling, did I mention paddling? I get a second shot, except this time I just take the drop, grab rail, race it for about 30 metres inside heaven and manage to squeeze out the doggy door as it shuts down.
Two more waves, two more beatings on the shutdown because I just can't squeeze out fast enough, and I don't care.
Keeping an eye on the wind, might head back down later if it drops below hurricane force
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Is it just me or has the "Has Surfing Lost Its Soul" thread added some life to this thread?
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Just following Shearers lead like a good sheep mate.
I'll tone it down next time, just thought I'd share a fun few waves I had today
I'll tone it down next time, just thought I'd share a fun few waves I had today
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nah mate, I'mm all in favour of it.mical wrote:Just following Shearers lead like a good sheep mate.
I'll tone it down next time, just thought I'd share a fun few waves I had today
I just wondered if the "soul" thread had started people thinking a bit and then posting about their "soul-less???" surfs
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
look at it early...waited for sleepin digger...than bailed
surfin might have soul
but a blokes got traps check
and i got a couple quality muddys
surfin might have soul
but a blokes got traps check
and i got a couple quality muddys
reginald wrote:Hang on, now all of a sudden I'm the bad guy. How the try again did that happen?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
5 quality surfs in three days at my local the super low tide 50+ in the water fins punched out and bad vibes each session. Serious dredging and serious attitudes.. Rising tide fatter and mellow 1/3 the numbers big.
Score a wide one and howl the rat race had gone They did come back with the next low tide and the shit fight was on again
Score a wide one and howl the rat race had gone They did come back with the next low tide and the shit fight was on again
Jaffa, I'm opinionated, and I'm sometimes right. So?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Surfed the incoming tied on the Groin between Kings and Happies. Less the two foot of water and if you wern't careful you'd get sucked into one of those waves that doubles up when it hits the reef....then...well, you know what happens then!
Pulled into a 4ft'er that was so hollow I could hear the echo of the fish underneath me ducking! Deep inside the pitching the barrel I new there was not going to be any happy endings to this ride. Got pitched and smashed onto the reef. A few nice chunks out of my leg and a nice graze on my back...the board remaind untouched!
Paddled back out to the laughs of my friends and then managed to get stung by a blue bottle!
Oh well, that will teach me to skip a few hours of work!
MW
Pulled into a 4ft'er that was so hollow I could hear the echo of the fish underneath me ducking! Deep inside the pitching the barrel I new there was not going to be any happy endings to this ride. Got pitched and smashed onto the reef. A few nice chunks out of my leg and a nice graze on my back...the board remaind untouched!
Paddled back out to the laughs of my friends and then managed to get stung by a blue bottle!
Oh well, that will teach me to skip a few hours of work!
MW
Everyone has to pay their reef taxes!
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- barnacle
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
sounded like fun thoughledge71 wrote:Surfed the incoming tied on the Groin between Kings and Happies. Less the two foot of water and if you wern't careful you'd get sucked into one of those waves that doubles up when it hits the reef....then...well, you know what happens then!
Pulled into a 4ft'er that was so hollow I could hear the echo of the fish underneath me ducking! Deep inside the pitching the barrel I new there was not going to be any happy endings to this ride. Got pitched and smashed onto the reef. A few nice chunks out of my leg and a nice graze on my back...the board remaind untouched!
Paddled back out to the laughs of my friends and then managed to get stung by a blue bottle!
Oh well, that will teach me to skip a few hours of work!
MW
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".
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- barnacle
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
2nd surf today was a bit better, but the wind still into it and it was a bit fat, caught a few waves, took out the qf cause it looked like there was a good shoulder to carve off and it was great fun.
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".
- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Went to go for the late at the Point : the nor-easter was on it but the angle, oh the angle dear Yorrick,was sublimely perfect.
Was just lollygagging listening to Wade Davis on the radio (the same Wade Davis mentioned by NC) talking about the Polynesian culture of navigating and settling the Pacific.
Kahuna, Priest, Kapu, hierarchy......the gratitude and the glory of those who had figured out the mysteries of the sea.
Now we have IT and plasma screens at the Apex of our culture.
Still, as Carroll says, we must embrace modernity and not look backwards with envious eyes to noble races.
John the brickie came by for a chat: bout South Sumatra and the growing Euro Menace there.......in the water the standard was fcuking ballistic.....a natural footer flowing through sections and just obliterating the sinewy knuckles of energy where the bank was shallowest....Jordy bru.
I decided I might flag it and watch the show....only the lemon next to the pie anyhoo and no point spilling all your seed too early in the swell cycle. Tomorrow would be bigger.
And it was......with the same bump and lump and double-ups and wierdness and a ton of juice rolling down the line. They were all there: Fanning < Jordy, Wardo, and a bunch of others, the women pros, Owen Wright and his family. Was like an electric cattle Prod had been poked on the crowd when Owen caught his first wave.....it seemed to throw the most soulful and lackadaisical surfers into paroxysms of hard torquing surfing.
Baddy was out there on a big board, standing aloof and staring down the biggest sets. I had a chat to him.
"hey, where should I sit Shep"
Fcuk you tell me Dave, your getting all the good ones"
he paddled deep and nailed another bomb set.
Boy it was fun, even if I only caught a few scraps.
Was just lollygagging listening to Wade Davis on the radio (the same Wade Davis mentioned by NC) talking about the Polynesian culture of navigating and settling the Pacific.
Kahuna, Priest, Kapu, hierarchy......the gratitude and the glory of those who had figured out the mysteries of the sea.
Now we have IT and plasma screens at the Apex of our culture.
Still, as Carroll says, we must embrace modernity and not look backwards with envious eyes to noble races.
John the brickie came by for a chat: bout South Sumatra and the growing Euro Menace there.......in the water the standard was fcuking ballistic.....a natural footer flowing through sections and just obliterating the sinewy knuckles of energy where the bank was shallowest....Jordy bru.
I decided I might flag it and watch the show....only the lemon next to the pie anyhoo and no point spilling all your seed too early in the swell cycle. Tomorrow would be bigger.
And it was......with the same bump and lump and double-ups and wierdness and a ton of juice rolling down the line. They were all there: Fanning < Jordy, Wardo, and a bunch of others, the women pros, Owen Wright and his family. Was like an electric cattle Prod had been poked on the crowd when Owen caught his first wave.....it seemed to throw the most soulful and lackadaisical surfers into paroxysms of hard torquing surfing.
Baddy was out there on a big board, standing aloof and staring down the biggest sets. I had a chat to him.
"hey, where should I sit Shep"
Fcuk you tell me Dave, your getting all the good ones"
he paddled deep and nailed another bomb set.
Boy it was fun, even if I only caught a few scraps.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Today......TrevG wrote:4.30 am.....just getting light.................check
swell..............................................check
long lines.........................................check
long period swell mixed with shorter stuff...check
almost dead low tide............................check
Devil wind (all night easterly...................check.....
Went out anyway........got a few waves.....check
Wind dropped off - went glassy................check....
Was I in tune with the surf?....................Nope.........
Oh! And SHARK!.................................check.
Maybe tomorrow.
swell.......(bigger)........................check
long lines (longer).........................check
long period swell (more consistent).....check
wind offshore from midnight............check
awesome waves...........................check
coupla smashings.........................check, check, check.
3 hours and it's getting better all the time - even as I left.
Got some great waves.
Found the sand. It's all in the middle of the bay which means rides down to the boat ramp.
I reckon just about every point north od Steve must be going off (and maybe to the south).
Hope DonW is scoring in the Solomons or he'll be mightily pissed.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
well whacko, another hilarious session this morning in the piles of rubble thundering pretentiously in from the east
riding an ancient AB 6'5" just for the hell of it.
All great fun, got a few pieces of turgid violent rubbish then an amazing wave from nowhere, long and thick, backside barrel down the line on the sandbar.
All hopes up I then paddle back out and make the epic, farcical mistake we all sometimes make during surfs like this -- I got in a conversation.
Only one other guy out, a nice bloke who I see in the water fairly frequently.
We're sitting a fair way out in a spot where waves usually don't break but in this wacky swell, insist on breaking quite irrationally. He asks me about my fcuken brother's leg. (If you're wondering how Tom's leg is, let me relieve your concerns, it still isn't working so he won't be in the water for a while. Now you don't have to ask me if you see me in the lineup.)
That deadly thing, a meaningless conversation in a shifting lineup, then ensues.
Sure enough a two wave set comes and the second wave, the gem, we get caught inside, just out of position.
I try not to re start this conversation but nonetheless it re starts, another set comes through, second one is a gem, again we are caught inside.
The swell then does its classic irrational back-down for 25 minutes. Memo, don't fcuken talk in the surf.
riding an ancient AB 6'5" just for the hell of it.
All great fun, got a few pieces of turgid violent rubbish then an amazing wave from nowhere, long and thick, backside barrel down the line on the sandbar.
All hopes up I then paddle back out and make the epic, farcical mistake we all sometimes make during surfs like this -- I got in a conversation.
Only one other guy out, a nice bloke who I see in the water fairly frequently.
We're sitting a fair way out in a spot where waves usually don't break but in this wacky swell, insist on breaking quite irrationally. He asks me about my fcuken brother's leg. (If you're wondering how Tom's leg is, let me relieve your concerns, it still isn't working so he won't be in the water for a while. Now you don't have to ask me if you see me in the lineup.)
That deadly thing, a meaningless conversation in a shifting lineup, then ensues.
Sure enough a two wave set comes and the second wave, the gem, we get caught inside, just out of position.
I try not to re start this conversation but nonetheless it re starts, another set comes through, second one is a gem, again we are caught inside.
The swell then does its classic irrational back-down for 25 minutes. Memo, don't fcuken talk in the surf.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Settling into my new home. Last 4 days out at Sawtell island, ranging from lumpy, bumpy but fun 3ft to 4ft to yesterdays 5ft.
Lots of fun, winds not perfect but good enough. Rode my new Fatbat (thanks Mark!) all week to find out its (and my limits) on it- I reckon last night 5ft was it for me.
Forecast looks fun for the weekend
Lots of fun, winds not perfect but good enough. Rode my new Fatbat (thanks Mark!) all week to find out its (and my limits) on it- I reckon last night 5ft was it for me.
Forecast looks fun for the weekend
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
we have a bit swell...4ft max ( trev call a pumping 6 ) banks are so so...i gave it a hour and caught a couple...the old rv quad goes well...but it's hard surf anything real well in a shifting beachie ( and no...i didn't get in a conversation ....got out position all on my own..lol)
the beaches are clean...the sun is shining and the humidity thick as a backpacker on a brand new 7s paddling out t-tree in front everyone and wondering why every ones trying run him over
just on the points....we now have the old men of the noosa surf festival arriving en mass
so if u want see really old guys trying surf a long board like a surf board and hassle hard for waves
all the time tellin u how much better it was in there day
don't forget get up here and check it out
hell knows...global surf needs and deserves your support....there down too there last two thailand sweat shops
the beaches are clean...the sun is shining and the humidity thick as a backpacker on a brand new 7s paddling out t-tree in front everyone and wondering why every ones trying run him over
just on the points....we now have the old men of the noosa surf festival arriving en mass
so if u want see really old guys trying surf a long board like a surf board and hassle hard for waves
all the time tellin u how much better it was in there day
don't forget get up here and check it out
hell knows...global surf needs and deserves your support....there down too there last two thailand sweat shops
reginald wrote:Hang on, now all of a sudden I'm the bad guy. How the try again did that happen?
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