Where did you surf today ?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Feb 15, 2021 1:32 pm

Heavy chop, big steps on the face. SW in at 9am, but it was there all the time just offshore.

Sets overhead, got a few but way too choppy, staying on your feet was the main challenge.

Off to see some mates and keep an eye on what's happening
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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Feb 15, 2021 1:37 pm

looks shitt as that cold front/trough approaches.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Feb 15, 2021 1:50 pm

I'm told North point was tiny but perfect
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Feb 15, 2021 1:59 pm

I heard Bali was going off.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Feb 15, 2021 4:26 pm

You're mean, Steve. I watch Surfers of Bali just about every day. Their monthly round up shows just how many days that are good somewhere on the island. Answer: most days.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:07 pm

Well overhead this morning but big steps in the faces, more time bouncing around trying to stay on my board than holding a rail.

Small for the protected bays, but a few bigger ones. Perfect weather. I'm starting to enjoy it down here, in fact as soon as I learn to surf again it'll be great.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Feb 17, 2021 9:37 am

Heaps of bluebottles out in the surf and on the beach yesterday. Dodging them took a bit of forethought. Had to pull back on a couple of waves because I was about to slide through a nest of them on the take off. Got one wrapped around my leg while I was waiting for a lull to go out.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Feb 17, 2021 9:52 am

Yals just overhead this morning, one big double a sign of things to come. First time so far of smoothish faces, closing out though so not worth paddling out.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Feb 17, 2021 11:54 am

Katie Jackson /Surfline reckons Sunday's gonna be Excellent. So look out Cranked!

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:18 pm

Been a constant barrage of onshore uncrowded point surf here. Miles and miles of paddling.
My boards are all dinged up my limbs need wound management with all the lacerations.
It’s just a beautiful mental space to be in.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:19 pm

I'm thinking of buying a semi-gun for around here as there's usually chop on the faces and McCoys don't really handle it well. It's no problem in Bali where it glassy or a few little ripples over 90% of the time.

It would only be for up to double overhead, some local shapers seem to have this sort of board wired: 8', vee or rolled vee all the way, maybe a little concave in the vee.

Local shaper does these for old guys hitting up double overhead

Image
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Feb 17, 2021 1:58 pm

that looks really good to my eye.

I never have trouble with my McCoys handling chop.

I found the loaded dome bottom exceptional for reliable, neutral handling in chop/bump.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Feb 17, 2021 2:42 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Wed Feb 17, 2021 1:58 pm
that looks really good to my eye.

I never have trouble with my McCoys handling chop.

I found the loaded dome bottom exceptional for reliable, neutral handling in chop/bump.
OK great, it was remarkably large chop and steps, I've never surfed anything half as bad.

Main break is well overhead and pretty clean even though there's a light onshore. 10 people out in a football field sized take-off zone
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Feb 17, 2021 3:35 pm

I never have trouble with my McCoys handling chop because I DON'T HAVE ANY OF THEM

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Feb 17, 2021 3:55 pm

Cranked wrote:
Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:19 pm
I'm thinking of buying a semi-gun for around here as there's usually chop on the faces and McCoys don't really handle it well. It's no problem in Bali where it glassy or a few little ripples over 90% of the time.

It would only be for up to double overhead, some local shapers seem to have this sort of board wired: 8', vee or rolled vee all the way, maybe a little concave in the vee.

Local shaper does these for old guys hitting up double overhead

Image
Nice board. Single or 2 + 1 ?
Surfing at Langland Bay, Gower Peninsula, Wales
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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:04 pm

2+1

I got the full speel from the shaper, Mark Ogram, one of the MR old timers
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:35 pm

I had 7'6" tuflite Wayne Lynch board that you might have liked, Cranky. Only recently sold it.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:44 pm

I think there were a 6'6, 7' and 7'6. They were all really thin and narrow with too much rocker for me. The 7'6 was about 40l I think, that's Nick's territory.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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