Where did you surf today ?

[godsavetheking]

Sorry about the rooster, by the way. Any suspects?

[steve shearer]

old age.

I thought you would have poisoned him?

[steve shearer]

not to diss Carroll's inner monologue, as unintentionally revealing as it might be.

I agree with Lucky Al, a good phenomenological exploration of wave riding is rare, and might be an uncharted territory.

I think it's rare because the pro surfers who might attempt it are inarticulate morons lacking the inner life requisite for the task.

It was fun to read.....it kind of fits what Houellebecq said was the uniqueness of writing; it's the only art form that gives direct access to the mind and experience of another.

[alakaboo]

This article discusses why Qld/NNSW beaches are particularly susceptible to erosion under La Nina conditions.

https://riskfrontiers.com/the-first-tas ... o-la-nina/

[Cranked]

That was informative boo

[Nick Carroll]

there's no need to go around informing people boo, I mean honestly

[Nick Carroll]

oh and I've thought a bit about how quite a few of the best waves I've caught in my life have sorta seemed to bypass the memory, or at least the linguistic framer inside memory. I can feel them but they were so vividly in the moment and I was so caught up in them, I'm not sure I can describe them.

[steve shearer]

This article discusses why Qld/NNSW beaches are particularly susceptible to erosion under La Nina conditions.

https://riskfrontiers.com/the-first-tas ... o-la-nina/

Most of that is interesting in a water is wet way.

big call from him though, to state, that an ENE storm event could move the Byron sand slug into the Bay.

we'll see.

[mario]

After a couple mediocre days here I decided to paddle out yesterday afternoon into homes heaving shitfight . It was breaking 4-6 and I`d reckon only two in 10 were even remotely makeable . Got out only for a whole ten minutes of bombs just rolling through - all closeouts . One stood up nicely , shit I thought , swung late and stuck the drop and threaded through until it shut down in about a foot of water . Was the only decent wave I got until I went in picking off a smaller one and stepping off on the sand . Funny session that started off pretty big and then turned average sitting at about 3 foot and just closing out .
Hopefully the wind stays as it is so I can paddle out in a couple hours .
Positive note is I got to surf the faded 2.0 in some very solid conditions so far in this swell window . What a magnificent piece of equipment .

[Nick Carroll]

surfed Caba back beach, fun! chunky 3-4' east and sth, light winds

[Skipper]

thank god. minimal spread.

[Nick Carroll]

Oh and I picked up loofy's new gun for him

[steve shearer]

2 surfs today in onshore close-outs.

did an air on a foamy.

[Cranked]

Oh and I picked up loofy's new gun for him

I had a 6'10, six channel Byrning Spears a long time ago. Great board, used it a lot in Indo and around Margaret River. I swapped a Jim Banks 7'4 gun for it.

[alakaboo]

2 surfs today in onshore close-outs.

did an air on a foamy.

Bit unseemly for a man of your vintage.

[steve shearer]

your mate was absolutely correct in predicting that storm from the ENE would activate and transport some of the sand stuck off Cape Byron Boo.

Huge sand slug now washed into Clarkes.

almost a 100m of beach width there now. amazing.

[alakaboo]

He has studied that coastline more than just about anybody, including photogrammetry and surveys back to the 1880s.

It's also just geometry/geography.

[offshore1]

Easy as biking then.