Where did you surf today ?

[Nick Carroll]

swell pushed quickly to 6-8' around 11am today, had a buzzy surf in thick chunky long lefts, nobody out! a few people down the beach a way but they didn't really look like they were too clear on what they were doing.

Then the swell seemed to deflate a bit, still there but perhaps the tide shift causing it to wander around rather than focus

[Nick Carroll]

needless to say I was fucken ripping. Take that offshore1!

[offshore1]

Waist high and weak here in North Carolina Nick. I too was ripping which, given the circumstances , is far more impressive.

[Trev]

There would have been some words exchanged after a few of these.

Snapper dredging action.

https://youtu.be/--ZxLz2Dj5c

[Lucky Al]

needless to say I was fuschia ripping. Take that offshore1!

give us a thick description of a thick cunky long left ripped by nick, nick!

[Lucky Al]

There would have been some words exchanged after a few of these.

Snapper dredging action.

https://youtu.be/--ZxLz2Dj5c

AWESOME surf vid!

[Lucky Al]

For the first few waves I was thinking it was today, however a look at the description reveals that it's a compilation of footage taken over the years. Still a great watch though.

[Lucky Al]

Waist high and weak here in North Carolina Nick. I too was ripping which, given the circumstances , is far more impressive.

sounds amazing, offshore1! more details please!

[Lucky Al]

There would have been some words exchanged after a few of these.

Snapper dredging action.

https://youtu.be/--ZxLz2Dj5c

is that you at the start of that vid, trev?

[Wyre]

For the first few waves I was thinking it was today, however a look at the description reveals that it's a compilation of footage taken over the years. Still a great watch though.

Screw that Lucky Al, closer to home....... Peggy's!

Such a fickle spot. great fun this arvo on the low.

[Nick Carroll]

needless to say I was fuschia ripping. Take that offshore1!

give us a thick description of a thick cunky long left ripped by nick, nick!

OK!

I went off the beach between some small exposed rocks, Just boardies. On a 6’4” MC revee round pin with JJF futures fins. I'd thought about this a little bit, what board to ride, and stuck a 6’9” Banksy pintail in the car as well, but felt confident in the 6’4”. I've been enjoying shorter boards in solid surf lately.

Water was maybe 20-21 degrees. Surf was bombing, solid 6’ plus with bigger sets, sloping in from the north east like a difficult cousin at a Christmas lunch. The wind, supposedly NE, now dead. People surfing down the beach, well "surfing" is maybe generous, they just looked confused by this awkward large swell and its abruptness.

I dug in, paddled across and up on to the drift, felt the swim training as I did, breathing and relaxing but making the stroke count happen. Got out after maybe 20 duckdives and went straight to the takeoff spot and immediately got a wedged up 6’er, and used it to feel the board.

The swell booted to a consistent eight feet and I dunno, I just went into deep surf mode, Strung a lot of waves together. I was by myself until somebody else decided to assay the paddle out. Someone in striped black and white boardies. He looked familiar and after he cleared the end section and began the long haul out to the take-off I recognised him. It was a guy I'd grown up with many years ago. This was a childhood friend who back in 1970 had given my little brother his irredeemable grommet nickname of "Gobbo".

He came out and we talked a bit. Turned out his Dad had died about a month after mine. My dad was a journo, his was an architect. We'd been in the school tennis team together. He had a wicked serve and I had the tennis mind, we were a scary doubles team.

Anyway he drifted wide and I got the wave worth describing. It came onto the takeoff with a deal of intention and I embraced it with great joy. Took off, very deep, drove the 6’4” high and loose, opened the shoulders to it and ran the right line through the first 50 metres, then let the board drop to the base and squared up off the bottom, again open to the line. Put the board right underneath the lip line and blew the top off it. The whole thing felt like it was happening in slow motion, the way a lot of good turns do. I let my body extend through the end of the turn, relaxed, and then connected the wave through to the finish.

Paddled wide to the open water. The surfers down the end had gone by now. I got a few more then went out to where they'd been and got throttled by the biggest set of the day, a solid 10’, and then went to the spot where that set had broken and got the follow up set from there, and went in.

[Cranked]

We should tag that one for posterity Nick. I was about to relate my excitement catching three ridable waves yesterday on my mal.

[offshore1]

Waist high and weak here in North Carolina Nick. I too was ripping which, given the circumstances , is far more impressive.

sounds amazing, offshore1! more details please!

Okay Lucky Al.
Take Nick's story, and instead of the swell coming in like a difficult cousin, think of it more as the slow stumbling entrance of an Aldi soaked uncle.
Now take Nick's description of his performance, and up it three kilojoules, to get an idea of my exploits.

[godsavetheking]

What the hell is a tennis mind?

[godsavetheking]

Always thinking about balls?

[godsavetheking]

It’s a puzzle, that’s for sure

[Nick Carroll]

it's like when you're thinking about jogging except tennis.

[godsavetheking]

But I don’t think about jogging! I’m like Forrest Gump, utterly devoid of all that shit