Where did you surf today ?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Dec 12, 2019 1:59 pm

offshore1 wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 1:41 pm
Unless you don't have a college degree, then you're fcuked.
Since I've been a kid its pretty well always been get a degree, or a trade, or you're fcuked.

But the perception now is you're fcuked anyway, but those results show that is not correct (for a degree anyway).
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:00 pm

Fcuk! I went down to Sunset after the contest finished, the swell jumped 4' in half an hour and it was going mental, closing out the channel, bombing third reef. I paddled out on an 8'0" AB and stalked the second reef from the side, totally undergunned, really you needed a 10'0". It was a solid 12-15' plus, v clean but you had to be soooo careful not to get caught. I got a pretty solid one and rode down it, the 8'0" fully engaging the channels, looked for markers to see where I was in relation to the inside and realised it was one of the ones that were closing out the whole channel to Kammieland. So epic! I faded off the back, went back out, stalked it again and got a nice 12'+ west peak roll-in. This one came back in on the reef and I thought, yeah, she's gonna stand up through that epic gulping inside barrel section, but instead it just went Fcuk You and lurched sideways and shut down. I had to straighten out and got a fantastic flogging, came up and I was in the washing machine inside that piece of reef and outside Val's Reef. So I thought, OK I'll go in now.

Basically Sunset kicked me out!

Perfect conditions but. Baby's bottom surface outside.

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:07 pm

Onya Nick. Goddamn that sounds intense.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:11 pm

Well this is why I surf, because sometimes it's fcuking intense.

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:18 pm

You're still a Boomer.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:18 pm

I'm not claiming that one.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu Dec 12, 2019 5:51 pm

Baby’s bottom surface wtf
And I’ll claim that beating, thanks nick
Erase.

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black duck
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by black duck » Thu Dec 12, 2019 8:53 pm

Why the focus on sunset NC? What about Rocky Point and Haleiwa and other spots? What is it about Sunset? It looks like a tricky somewhat unpredictable cnut of a wave.
smnmntll wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 3:20 pm
You foaming spangoloids need to chill before you all do wetties on the carpet

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Dec 12, 2019 9:55 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:11 pm
Well this is why I surf, because sometimes it's fcuking intense.
"Death in the Afternoon"
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Fri Dec 13, 2019 2:28 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 3:00 pm
Fcuk! I went down to Sunset after the contest finished, the swell jumped 4' in half an hour and it was going mental, closing out the channel, bombing third reef. I paddled out on an 8'0" AB and stalked the second reef from the side, totally undergunned, really you needed a 10'0". It was a solid 12-15' plus, v clean but you had to be soooo careful not to get caught. I got a pretty solid one and rode down it, the 8'0" fully engaging the channels, looked for markers to see where I was in relation to the inside and realised it was one of the ones that were closing out the whole channel to Kammieland. So epic! I faded off the back, went back out, stalked it again and got a nice 12'+ west peak roll-in. This one came back in on the reef and I thought, yeah, she's gonna stand up through that epic gulping inside barrel section, but instead it just went Fcuk You and lurched sideways and shut down. I had to straighten out and got a fantastic flogging, came up and I was in the washing machine inside that piece of reef and outside Val's Reef. So I thought, OK I'll go in now.

Basically Sunset kicked me out!

Perfect conditions but. Baby's bottom surface outside.
Nice one brother, that's what we do.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Dec 13, 2019 2:48 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol:
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Dec 13, 2019 4:25 pm

black duck wrote:
Thu Dec 12, 2019 8:53 pm
Why the focus on sunset NC? What about Rocky Point and Haleiwa and other spots? What is it about Sunset? It looks like a tricky somewhat unpredictable cnut of a wave.
It's the best wave aside from Pipe, Pipe is occupied. I'll go surf Rockies when it's small enough.

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Fri Dec 13, 2019 5:18 pm

Sorry guys, bought a new board so expect crap waves for the next few days.
marauding mullet wrote:
Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:35 pm
Lol good for you BA.
Can I dry hump your numb patch?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Dec 13, 2019 6:22 pm

What is it BA?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Dec 13, 2019 6:46 pm

McCoy Tuflite Zap
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Fri Dec 13, 2019 7:09 pm

Lol not quite, but as close as I’ve ever been. A Chilli Rarest Bird in twin tech epoxy.

Image

Image

It’s bloody light. Be very interesting to see how it goes.
marauding mullet wrote:
Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:35 pm
Lol good for you BA.
Can I dry hump your numb patch?

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Dec 14, 2019 1:52 pm

According to Dorsal a bull shark took a fish off a spear fisher at South Bondi this morning. Didn't know you were allowed to spear fish there...but anyway...I must have been out in the surf at the time.
Also one down at The Farm. Waiting for AJ apparently.

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Cranked
Snowy McAllister
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sat Dec 14, 2019 3:55 pm

BA wrote:
Fri Dec 13, 2019 7:09 pm
Lol not quite, but as close as I’ve ever been. A Chilli Rarest Bird in twin tech epoxy.

Image

Image

It’s bloody light. Be very interesting to see how it goes.
Perfect planshape BA
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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