psychological aspects to bigger wave riding

[Caroma]

Having to take drugs to handle the 'stress' of going surfing and lifting your performance is just off the deep end. FFS. Drugs for recreational reasons, OK, but not that.

I find this perspective rather comical. Essentially are you saying that if you need drugs to enjoy yourself in a social sictuation then its alright, but if you need them to surf well then it's terrible?

[elbows]

Surfing is the drug.
If I needed drugs to help me enjoy it, I reckon I might try something else

[wanto]

when it's really big, i try and have a wank through my wetsuit to settle the nerves.

[The Mighty Sunbird]

My approach: if I know its big, I take my biggest board, my trusty 7 foot dhd gun. It feels good under my feet and I feel safe on it.
If I find myself in fear lookin over the edge, for the next sets my mantra is : 'fuck it i'm goin'. thats it i go and it works

btw benzos like xanax cause incoordination: I've inadvertently surfed the next morning after using them (don't ask) and found kookness abounds.
I can't surf good on any drug.

And using benzos for anxiety means you are on the road to addiction.

[puurri]

when it's really big, i try and have a wank through my wetsuit to settle the nerves.

wearing your gimp mask no doubt.

[bood]

songs in the key of confidence. building confidence is the art. fitness, mental preparedness to get hurt, finding and bringing the right equipment inlcuding a gimp mask. when they all come together pushing over the first ledge is easy (or not so difficult). if one or more is missing it is a struggle.

the psych aspect that the original post was referring to might be dealing with or overcoming the prospect of getting hurt. I don't think many people paddle out thinking I am going to drown today, but lots will paddle out knowing pain is a real possibility. People don't back out of a drop on a larger wave because they think they are going to die, more often it is i don't think I am going to make it and it is going to hurt.

i think the above holds true whenever a surfer goes beyond their size confort zone.

[puurri]

the psych aspect that the original post was referring to might be dealing with or overcoming the prospect of getting hurt. I don't think many people paddle out thinking I am going to drown today, but lots will paddle out knowing pain is a real possibility. People don't back out of a drop on a larger wave because they think they are going to die, more often it is i don't think I am going to make it and it is going to hurt.
i think the above holds true whenever a surfer goes beyond their size confort zone.

Yes, and you can forget the gimp mask. Confort? C'est impossible!

[Kunji]

Wasnt there a guy in the 60's or 70's who won the pipe comp all coked up? It must have done him good.

[Revolution]

Wasnt there a guy in the 60's or 70's who won the pipe comp all coked up? It must have done him good.

What the fark you doin on here ya old cnut. happy b-day

[Kunji]

Wasnt there a guy in the 60's or 70's who won the pipe comp all coked up? It must have done him good.

What the fark you doin on here ya old cnut. happy b-day

ha ha, thanks mate. Im actually at work. Which totally sucks.

[daryl]

Whistling to keep up courage is no mere figure of speech

shuddup Rev