There’s some familiar faces checking the scene. “looks good”, “Yeah”. “Swell’s come up”. “It’ll probably be bigger later in the week”. “Yeah”. “Going in? ‘Yeah, I’ll see you out there”.
The wetsuits dry so the colds a bit more bearable. A quick change, walk down the sand which numbs the bottom of your feet until you hit the wet sand which is bit warmer. Then toes in the water, which is warmer still. It’s a bit cooler than last week, but still warmer than the air.
The paddle out is easy, just a bit south of the break, over the faces of the unbroken sections. The water feels warm as you turn to paddle in to your first wave. You get your share of waves, like the others out there and after an hour or so you are ready to face the day. You catch your last wave into the beach and walk up the sand to the car. Your feet are so numb that they feel like you are walking on pads and your towel feels like sand paper on your skin. But that is soon forgotten as you warm up.
That’s it - the early – and the stoke stays with you all day.
