Bang on Monkey!monkey wrote:Amen to this thread!
I bought my first copy of Tracks in 1982 at 13yrs old as I boarded a train at Central to head to Byron for a few weeks with the family.
I was hooked all the way reading great stories from competent, arguably great writers. I still remember Derek Hynd writing about surfing in Shikoku Japan - "sets wrapped into the point like Harriers in attack formation" When was the last time you read something like that in Tracks? "Three Cheers for the Cyclone" with pics from all over the east coast not just bloody "Ours" with it's pack of tools. Over the years, stories about the fires that wiped out Aireys Inlet in Victoria, or the classic "G-land news" and others from Nick Carroll during the Grajagan trip that spawned "All Down the Line".
What about Wayne Lynch's "Shark Encounter" or the Tall tales and True "To Live and Die in Kuta". Where are these great stories of our culture in amongst the dross that passes for monthly fare?
Tracks talked it up as one of the classic swells of the last 20 years; it got 11 pages of coverage and 6 of these were of "Ours". In the same issue, a promo photo spread of Quikky's "Young Guns 3" got 16 PAGES!
What's this on the "backpage"? Well whatdyaknow - "Ours" again!
Sad
Good writing is crucial, and there isn't much demand for it these days. Well, at least not in the rags. Writers that I like to read (Matt Warshaw, NC, Jarratt, Hynd, Brisick are writing books or only contribute sporadically).
That 'Harrier' quote of Hynd's sparked my memory and I recalled a brilliant story by him of surfing a heat on the big day of the 81 Bells. A landmark day for pro surfing and also board design. The gist of it was that he and the three other guys in the heat were scratching hard to avoid getting caught inside by a 15 foot, 10 wave stepladder set. One fella, Dane Harris I think, was the furthest inside and only just scraping under the lip of each wave.
As Hynd paddled over the last, and biggest, wave of the set he and the other fellas looked around to see if Dane had made it through. He didn't show and they all feared the worst. As the spray from the wave cleared they saw the whole crowd on the Bells cliffs 'doing a scene from the movie Zulu'. All jumping up and screaming as one. Dane had spun around and taken that wave.
Ah... it might not be much in retelling but it was a story and a quote thats stuck with me for over 20 years. I just dont see good story-telling in the mags anymore.