Ask Carroll

[rmb]

I'm trying the best of both worlds approach: Get a board that is just right for me for 99% of daily surfing, but made from materials that make it an attractive wall-hanger and also very durable.
I imagine it will hang on the wall of my retirement home, wherever it may be, because I may only have the one room and the wall will be the most sensible storage place. And it will look fabulous....and I'll still take it for a surf when I can, 'cause it's the best board in the world to grow old with.

Why hang it just sit it in the corner upright. This whole surfboard keepsake thing is a bit of a joke really what you really have is foam, fiber glass cloth and set resin sometimes with a little bit of paint to decorate. They are made to be enjoyed until no longer useable. Yes it takes some sort of skill to manufacture a board but so does building a house or manufacturing furniture the only boards I would consider collectable are those of significance from contest wins or a deceased legend shaped and surfed it but a lot of the time how would you know.

[godsavetheking]

I think he's talking about a balsa McCoy, rmb.

Nick, how is it possible that pros can still find themselves riding a board in a contest that isn't right? And who is to blame, shaper or surfer?

[rmb]

I think he's talking about a balsa McCoy, rmb.

Nick, how is it possible that pros can still find themselves riding a board in a contest that isn't right? And who is to blame, shaper or surfer?

I just read his last comment although why would you surf that now it has had it's day.

[MrMik]

I think he's talking about a balsa McCoy, rmb.
...
...

Close, but not quite. Balsa is not durable.

Foam core, laminated with Paulownia should hopefully do the trick.

[Beanpole]

I'm trying the best of both worlds approach: Get a board that is just right for me for 99% of daily surfing, but made from materials that make it an attractive wall-hanger and also very durable.
I imagine it will hang on the wall of my retirement home, wherever it may be, because I may only have the one room and the wall will be the most sensible storage place. And it will look fabulous....and I'll still take it for a surf when I can, 'cause it's the best board in the world to grow old with.

Why hang it just sit it in the corner upright. This whole surfboard keepsake thing is a bit of a joke really what you really have is foam, fiber glass cloth and set resin sometimes with a little bit of paint to decorate. They are made to be enjoyed until no longer useable. Yes it takes some sort of skill to manufacture a board but so does building a house or manufacturing furniture the only boards I would consider collectable are those of significance from contest wins or a deceased legend shaped and surfed it but a lot of the time how would you know.

Well yeah, why hang a surfboard?
I think it's as good to hang as anything else if its got some longevity.
Old surfboards have history.
Why you would want to hang some pros ultralight throwaway with their signature on it I don't know. People frame rugby jumpers and shite so a surfboard has definitely got the edge on that.
Of course you might prefer a picture of your pet cat or a centre fold or a painting of a vase of flowers.

It's a cultural act. So is having a blank wall.

[andy2476]

Hanging a framed rugby jumper on your wall ( or one of any code or sport ) is just as lame as hanging a surfboard.

[Beanpole]

Well I'd say more lame but hey whatever floats your boat.
It could be some party lights and a few deck chairs or an acrylic ironic take on a candelabra or a gold nugget.

[Nick Carroll]

I think he's talking about a balsa McCoy, rmb.

Nick, how is it possible that pros can still find themselves riding a board in a contest that isn't right? And who is to blame, shaper or surfer?

Ha if you're talking about some of the weird shit going on at JBay on the final day, I think there was some complex stuff going on there, the kind of lines some of the surfers wanted to draw just weren't in sync with the day and the conditions, the boards were just part of that equation

To me the surfer alone is ultimately responsible for his or her performance, it's like your own surfing, you choose the board or reject it as part of an overall process. "Blame" seems a slightly odd term to use in this context, that is unless you gambled on the pro surfer and he lost your money for you, then yes, blame the cnut all the way to the bank.

[pirate_agenda]

I think he's talking about a balsa McCoy, rmb.

Nick, how is it possible that pros can still find themselves riding a board in a contest that isn't right? And who is to blame, shaper or surfer?

Ha if you're talking about some of the weird shit going on at JBay on the final day, I think there was some complex stuff going on there, the kind of lines some of the surfers wanted to draw just weren't in sync with the day and the conditions, the boards were just part of that equation

To me the surfer alone is ultimately responsible for his or her performance, it's like your own surfing, you choose the board or reject it as part of an overall process. "Blame" seems a slightly odd term to use in this context, that is unless you gambled on the pro surfer and he lost your money for you, then yes, blame the cnut all the way to the bank.

I noticed Curren looked way smoother in the heritage heat than most of the pros. Yes I know he is the smoothest surfer to grave the earth, but I also think it had something to do with his board. He mentioned it was an off the rack from a local shop. I think the extra weight in a rack board compared to the pros single 4 oz featherweights was desirable in the given conditions.

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Nick Carroll]

Not wanting to go on about Tom too much, but if you get a chance to re-view that ride, you'll see something really fascinating that might be of benefit to your technical skills.

As Tom rolls off the whitewater just prior to pulling up into the tube, he re-sets his stance. He comes around near the base with everything held pretty square and straight.

Now: watch how he initiates the turn up the face into the slot.

If you watch this closely you'll see him roll his knees forward and into the wave face. It's subtle and simple yet quite distinct. With this shift Tom sets the inside rail - something 99% of surfers would try to achieve via some sort of "double-pump" or other agitated upper body movement.

Try to think about how to manage rail shifts not by working your shoulders and upper body, but by shifting weight like Tom does right there, through your hips, knees and ankles. Yeah it pays off big in great surf but it also works for you in small and messy waves, longboards, shortboards, whatever.

[tootr]

Hanging a framed rugby jumper on your wall ( or one of any code or sport ) is just as lame as hanging a surfboard.

My boss has Jeff Fenech signed boxing gloves and some horseracing photos showing his nag came third in the woop woop stakes.

I told you guys he's a prize cnut.

[spork]

Not wanting to go on about Tom too much, but if you get a chance to re-view that ride, you'll see something really fascinating that might be of benefit to your technical skills.

As Tom rolls off the whitewater just prior to pulling up into the tube, he re-sets his stance. He comes around near the base with everything held pretty square and straight.

Now: watch how he initiates the turn up the face into the slot.

If you watch this closely you'll see him roll his knees forward and into the wave face. It's subtle and simple yet quite distinct. With this shift Tom sets the inside rail - something 99% of surfers would try to achieve via some sort of "double-pump" or other agitated upper body movement.

Try to think about how to manage rail shifts not by working your shoulders and upper body, but by shifting weight like Tom does right there, through your hips, knees and ankles. Yeah it pays off big in great surf but it also works for you in small and messy waves, longboards, shortboards, whatever.

Interesting. I was talking to a local bloke who rip about get more board speed on my back hand and he said much the same thing. He says its a subtle movement through the lower body through a shift forward with your hips. Not really a thrust, more of a shifting of your centre of balance.

[Beanpole]

I wonder how many old pros could pull off what Curren did?
Given his previous signature performance at J Bay it was a bit like he claimed it in more ways than one.


On another note, Nick, given your previous statements about having quite light boards last for years. Do you particularly go out of your way to look after them or do you chuck em in the back of a ute without covers and wax them on the bitumen?

[Nick Carroll]

lil brother could.

Pottz sorta could. Occ can't (you saw that). Elko, maybe.

re lightweight boards, well, I dunno, I look after them but not unduly, I definitely don't use board covers unless I'm travelling on a plane somewhere. Like fcuk, they're just surfboards mostly.

This weekend I surfed ABs exclusively, caught some really heavy beach break waves on 'em. 8' plus wedged up beasts, just didn't think about it too much despite the undeniable fact that every one of them I snap from now on, I'm never getting it back.

[Natho]

Spork, I have a good friend who is an awesome surfer. One of the fastest guys at generating speed you will see. Along the lines of what you are talking about he refers to as ' doing the hoola hoop'. Well sort of but you get the idea. At the same time he uses forward thrust via using the hands as well. It also comes down to positioning on the wAve too using the steep sections to get speed.

[steve shearer]

speaking of subtle, stylish and wonderfully effective lower body torque I just surfed the local point pretty much as good as it gets with Steph Gilmore and had a couple of paddler-eye views of her surfing.

wow. What a beautiful pleasing style. Nothing forced but I love the way she uses the natural rhythm of the wave and her board speed to project from one turn into the next, increasing or decreasing the radical nature of each turn according to the vicissitudes of the wave dynamic.
she can really swing the axe when she needs to.

[Finn]

Nice way to start the day....