RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I was out surfing today and I was talking to this gnarled, salt encrusted bali-hand.

He said Nusa Dua was epic yesterday, he surfed it by himself for 2 hours, it was a solid 5'

Whoa I said, there's no such thing as 5' - iggy would have been proud of me - fcuk off you stupid cnut he replied

The only time in my entire surfing life where I've said the surf was three feet yesterday and the listener went....."wow, overhead.".....was on Nusa Lembongon. The guy was a frother as well.

Tiny surf today, but had a good hour at a place where the "bathometry amplifies the swell"® before the tide killed it.

On the paddle back I hooked into three in a row of these tiny little waves:







Each was 200m of endless turns. The above from the last and worst. I paddled in after that.

® Alakaboo Nov 2017

How bigs the board Cranky?

7' quad, rounded pin, single to double concave

Super fun beachies this morning. lotsa closeouts, but even they were fun for the view. head high, a bitta push and the occasional left and right reeling all the way to the sand, 60m away.

new board is fast and lively.

You travel with your own photographer now Cranked?

marauding mullet wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 05, 2017 6:28 pm

You travel with your own photographer now Cranked?

It was the photog dudes, nothing moves in the water at Ulus without it being recorded.

As I walked past them at the top of the stairs at the cave, they said we got you up at t£&@#£a, I said tida ada, they said ya betul, anda lihat. So I looked and they did.

Going well, cranky.

Done more surfing in the last week than I have in a long time. So many fun waves around.

My girlfriend had one of those spastic party things today where they invite you along and ply you with booze in the hope that you’ll buy all of their shit. It was at Tweed so against my better judgement I checked out Snapper on the low. It was loads of fun and remarkably civilised in the water. Out of the hundred or so across the whole bank there was maybe 5 guys who could surf. It felt nice to surf a point for the first time in a couple of months and got a few chest high peelers from Rainbow through to Greeny. Stayed out too long though and that cost me another hundred in shit moisturiser for the missus.

Two foot plus south end maroubra. Junky conditions but some fun wedgey ripbowls. Steep and pitching but not quite barelling. Those junky east swells always surf better than they look.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 05, 2017 3:09 pm

Tiny surf today, but had a good hour at a place where the "bathometry amplifies the swell"® before the tide killed it.
On the paddle back I hooked into three in a row of these tiny little waves:

Hats off cranky. Flaring. Looking tuned up

Thanks BD, and to Beanie as well.

These boards get much more of a workout, especially the 6'8

Where’s ya hat?

i've been surfing a fair bit lately in front of our place in vietnam. head-high mushy lefts. someone had left a 5'8" round-nosed quad under the staircase so i took it for a spin and liked the feel. i think the last time i surfed such a little board i was 14. i was surprised by how fast i went on it. whoosh! straight into the oncoming foam face-first. good fun.

the "right" down the beach was good for boogie, and crash.

i left for saigon the morning before the storm hit. not because the storm was coming but because my son's school break was over and we had to get back to bangkok. the next morning there were roofs flying, trees uprooting, streets flooding and ships wrecking up and down the coast. you probably wouldn't have been thinking about surfing there that day.