Steve that was an awesome story
Steve, whats the story with all the hot women on the north shore walking around near surf photographers?
What's the largest wave you've ridden?
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Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
Oscar Wilde - "I am not young enough to know everything"
Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
Great story Steve, I would love to have spent some time on the North Shore back in those days......first time I went was in 84 to Maui (yes Dino - windsurfing) ..... but the last time I spent a season over there 04/05 and that was amazing. It's got such a heavy but sad vibe. I spent a lot of time on my own surfing Backyards....stayed in a house where RCJ used to stay all the time which was very convenient to Sunset. I trained , ran down past Pipeline every day , I was 42 , pretty fit and surfed some big waves (well for me) not my biggest , but maybe the most powerful. The peak at Sunset is fairly intimidating....even on an average day.
I kinda knew N.Webster and a couple of other pros but they had their own scene and believe it or not BB's kinda reserved when it comes to crashing scenes. I remember being blown away at how heavy big out-of-control pipeline was one arvo and a couple of Aussie grommets (dont know who they were) absolutely charged them on their own. Then out stared Karla Alexander till he smiled at me as I walked past the Volcom house. One day the only person that acknowledged me the whole day was KS. Classic. Pretty lonely place that Nth Shore. But great to experience for surfing. Unique.
I kinda knew N.Webster and a couple of other pros but they had their own scene and believe it or not BB's kinda reserved when it comes to crashing scenes. I remember being blown away at how heavy big out-of-control pipeline was one arvo and a couple of Aussie grommets (dont know who they were) absolutely charged them on their own. Then out stared Karla Alexander till he smiled at me as I walked past the Volcom house. One day the only person that acknowledged me the whole day was KS. Classic. Pretty lonely place that Nth Shore. But great to experience for surfing. Unique.
Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
I've got a couple of memories of big waves....Hawaii in the late 80's, paddling out at Sunset. Maxin' west peaks marching down the coast, then reversing pushing into the bay. The takeoff zone as big as a footy field. (Regie the Vegie Luke had warned/primed me about the size of it.)
After checking out how it’s done for a good hour or more, then raising the courage to take the drop.
I had borrowed a big red Owl shooter from a mate, 8'8", great to paddle, needed every inch.
Hooked in, dropped for what seemed like forever, finally finding the bottom followed by a massive arching turn, into the face.
Scored about 5 of the most exhilarating waves of my life that morning. Best session I can remember.
Met my mate after he knocked off work that afternoon in the carpark. He grabbed the 8'6", I got the 7'9".
Things were different now though. The wind was up and the crowd was bigger and hungry and the conditions, way more challenging. I was probably undergunned, taking off late and way inside, behind a couple of locals.
Don't remember what happened next, other than wiping out and getting rolled under the wave. 2 more monsters rolled over me before I finally came up, lungs burning, near death, lolling around in the lagoon, gasping for air........needless to say, didn't go back for more that arvo.
Had some other memorable big wave experiences, the Ninth hole at Kahoku around the corner from the North shore on a big W Bay day. Nearly drowned there too. Broke my board yakking to some guy with my back to the sea. Turned at the last minute, paddled like a looney but had to punch through the top pitching lip, all this some 400m off shore. Came up with only the last 8 inches of my board attached to my legrope. Had to swim against the current to get back in. The board, or what was left of it, pretty much acting as an anchor.
After checking out how it’s done for a good hour or more, then raising the courage to take the drop.
I had borrowed a big red Owl shooter from a mate, 8'8", great to paddle, needed every inch.
Hooked in, dropped for what seemed like forever, finally finding the bottom followed by a massive arching turn, into the face.
Scored about 5 of the most exhilarating waves of my life that morning. Best session I can remember.
Met my mate after he knocked off work that afternoon in the carpark. He grabbed the 8'6", I got the 7'9".
Things were different now though. The wind was up and the crowd was bigger and hungry and the conditions, way more challenging. I was probably undergunned, taking off late and way inside, behind a couple of locals.
Don't remember what happened next, other than wiping out and getting rolled under the wave. 2 more monsters rolled over me before I finally came up, lungs burning, near death, lolling around in the lagoon, gasping for air........needless to say, didn't go back for more that arvo.
Had some other memorable big wave experiences, the Ninth hole at Kahoku around the corner from the North shore on a big W Bay day. Nearly drowned there too. Broke my board yakking to some guy with my back to the sea. Turned at the last minute, paddled like a looney but had to punch through the top pitching lip, all this some 400m off shore. Came up with only the last 8 inches of my board attached to my legrope. Had to swim against the current to get back in. The board, or what was left of it, pretty much acting as an anchor.
- lessormore
- barnacle
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- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:19 am
- Location: southside
Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
Ken has a good story to tell!
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/no-c ... lins_39122
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/no-c ... lins_39122
Just when you thought life couldn't get any worse-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUfKnqv2C3k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUfKnqv2C3k
Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
biggest wave for me was a mushburger at a down south bombie near denmark. Very deep water, rather low consequence, around 12ft australian. Quite exhilarating.. never had that much speed before.
Biggest proper wave would've been during that big swell in margs two or so years ago.. May '07, I think? One of those rare monster winter swells that actually had decent winds; i remember seabreeze giving it 6 or so metres. It was at North Point and that whole day in general was a real intimidating beast; the whole bay was closing out, just fckn mental. We'll call it 10ft australian. I'd still say 6ft Box was my heaviest experience, though.
Biggest proper wave would've been during that big swell in margs two or so years ago.. May '07, I think? One of those rare monster winter swells that actually had decent winds; i remember seabreeze giving it 6 or so metres. It was at North Point and that whole day in general was a real intimidating beast; the whole bay was closing out, just fckn mental. We'll call it 10ft australian. I'd still say 6ft Box was my heaviest experience, though.
Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
sick storylessormore wrote:Ken has a good story to tell!
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/no-c ... lins_39122
Oscar Wilde - "I am not young enough to know everything"
Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
this thread is the best, it makes me want surf! usually i can't bear the thought of going surfing. but i felt sad when buff brad said the north shore is a lonely place, and when owl fell asleep in a rocking chair in front of the tele after steve shearer stole his girl. really sad...
- Revolution
- Snowy McAllister
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Re: What's the largest wave you've ridden?
Surfline were calling pipe 15-20ft with 25fters coming through this morning.
I think hatchman did the report
I think hatchman did the report
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