Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:29 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I think: there but for the Grace of God, etc etc

Still, he seemed to do no harm.

and RIP to Bob.
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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:44 pm

Aj, I’ve got a few down here! Just make the Deed for the house out to Mrs Wyre for tax purposes. Seriously, drive down at 5am, you’ll be pulling in at 6, back in time for the morning debrief at 9.25.

Good advice Nick, sorry to hear the news. That situation must be up there for most common way to drown surfing?
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ctd
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ctd » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:22 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.
I was also taught to have the strap done up so you release it by pulling inwards (ie if on your right leg, pull towards your left). Because this means you can use either arm to undo (can’t pull outwards using your opposite arm ie if on right ankle, can’t pull to the right with your left arm). Also so you always know which way to pull if you are panicking

But never had to put it to the test so - any opinions?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:35 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.
Thanks again Nick. That's exactly the mistake I made. You told me that when I reported here a while ago that I was under for 3 waves with a snagged leggie at Voodoo and only lived to tell the tale because my leggie broke. I make sure I tell other people
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Yuke Hunt » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:03 pm

Here's a link to short film, HOME (about Bob) ...

https://vimeo.com/229802433
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marauding mullet
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by marauding mullet » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:23 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I found that incredibly sad, seemed too decent a bloke to be living alone like that.
Is that how he wanted it? Who knows.
petulance wrote: 01100100 01101001 01100111 01101001 01110100 01100001 01101100 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011
smnmntll wrote:
Tue Jul 10, 2018 3:31 pm
Yum x 1000

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:28 pm

Wyre wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:44 pm
Aj, I’ve got a few down here! Just make the Deed for the house out to Mrs Wyre for tax purposes. Seriously, drive down at 5am, you’ll be pulling in at 6, back in time for the morning debrief at 9.25.

Good advice Nick, sorry to hear the news. That situation must be up there for most common way to drown surfing?
It's not really, most people who drown while surfing do so because they suffer a heart attack or hit the bottom and are knocked unconscious.

But there's been a few over the years for sure.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:52 pm

marauding mullet wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:23 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I found that incredibly sad, seemed too decent a bloke to be living alone like that.
Is that how he wanted it? Who knows.
Yeah, who knows. Loneliness can be just as much a problem for even the most popular person who seems to have everything, both socially and materially, as it is for a guy living in a beach side van.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:35 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary

How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.
Top guy Bob
I had the pleasure of his company for a few years of dawn surfs at LA
Bob B would have been mid 60s surfed really well
Sad loss
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:39 pm

marauding mullet wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:23 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I found that incredibly sad, seemed too decent a bloke to be living alone like that.
Is that how he wanted it? Who knows.
It’s just the way he wanted to live

Made his own boards often twin fins with radically deep concave and side cuts
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:51 pm

Mannnnnnly
Ultimately a hero is a man who would argue with the gods, and so awakens devils to contest his vision.

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:08 am

Miles and miles of straight handers this morning
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:27 am

saltman wrote:
Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:15 am
Crankys fav at 6.30 am just 4 guys out
Ruler edged lines marching down the reef
double overhead sets every 10 minutes
The 5.10 quartet was getting a bit chattery as it hit top speed but held in remarkably well

Crowd grew to a dozen after an hour with clean up sets every 30 minutes keeping it real

Nice way to finish the trip , taking one about 200 metres onto the inside reef and straightening out

The guy behind me tried the same and lost 2 fins on the reef
https://youtu.be/151Q7NQJqhw

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:30 am

650m, fast & hollow when its on
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:47 am

Yeah, not one its speedy days.
It looks lovely though. 'Ruler edged lines' as Saltman said.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:58 am

On that last big swell I spent an hour on the cliff top being schooled on the finer points by the guy who surfs it best.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:20 am

That’s the day
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:20 am

Cranked wrote:
Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:58 am
On that last big swell I spent an hour on the cliff top being schooled on the finer points by the guy who surfs it best.
Mick R ?
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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