Just in case someone didn't get it yet . . . .

[Roy_Stewart]

Roy - have you got any footage of the boards being ridden in decent conditions?? Only footage I can find is p$ss weak slop....

It's only 'p$ss weak slop' to those with f*cking useless equipment.

There's more than enough grunt in one of those waves to power a mack truck, but it's not available if you ride a chilli bin lid.

[Roy_Stewart]

Mate you looked like some unfit inner city spud from a surf school standing up on a foamie for the first time

Appearances can be very deceiving.. . . a lot of try hards have had the same attitude until they paddle out and get a little closer. . .

Like on this particular day





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[Kunji]

What, on a 3 foot day?

[Roy_Stewart]

^^ not having a dig here Roy, but you saying "Like on this particular day"...well, i'm not sure where you're driving with that??

35 knot offshores, and I was the only one able to make the waves, a typical situation .

are you talking skill??

Yes

Skill and superior equipment won the day

you seem to have some manner of poise and well placed weighting about you in that instance, but you're really just holding a base trim line (ya know, pointing the thing straight down the line)

Mid face trim line actually, and when you've practiced riding a 70 pound 13'9" pintail in fast offshore conditions which other boards can't make, then get back to me and tell me what you think of the skill level required.

Trimming down the line is the essence of surfing, and is required when the waves are fast as in this case. . . . when the others are getting blown off the back or parachuting down into oblivion, the trim is just the ticket.

If you get to ride a wave like that on a 70 pound dragon board, you'll be stoked out of your mind I assure you.

or are you talking size??
hopefully bloody not, as it's barely 3 foot..

NoI wasn't, but since you mentioned it . . you are using the old ' Let's undercall to show that we are real surfers' BS . . . .. I'm mid face and the wave is at least 8 feet. Now you can do your 'outraged that anyone can call an 8ft high wave 8 feet high ' routine. In case you didn't know it the undercalling trend was started in Hawaii to feed misinformation to kooks about the size of the waves. . .. seems there are a lot of kooks these days who believed it !

ps: still think you're a loon, but i'm warming to it all the same, and hope someone buys one of your 1/2 a million dollar boards..

I'm as sober as a judge, and logical to the point of pedantry. . . that's sanity, but those who are slaves to the machine think that anything not prescribed by it is insane, that's their insanity .

We'll be selling a lot more than one board but thanks for the good wishes !

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actually hope you sell 20 of 'em, as i remember you saying you've got about 10 kids ??

i like when people believe in their product and set wild price tags, power to 'em..

Now you're talking

[Roy_Stewart]

BOARDS FOR SALE!
(have a bit of a low cash flow situation at the moment)

Single fins all varying shapes and sizes have four to choose from. Made in the mid seventies to early eighties.
A few little dings and one is a bit melted from being in the sun.
All boards $1 000 000 (US$) each.
One has a genuine Metallica spray on top. Will make you look like the coolest dude in the water.
One has precision designed channels to help you slow down in the barrel.
Or you could hang them on the wall and impress your friends with your tastes.

I rode 70's singles from 1975 to 1995.

They are nice then but I'm so glad I don't have to bother with them now. . usually too light fins too small and too thick. . . otherwise fine.

It looks like marketplace havoc will now ensue as the lid comes off the pricing schedule set by the fat controller.

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[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Trev]

Woolly. Dead set. If you keep this up I'm gonna nominate you for a Walkley.

[crabmeat thompson]

Holy smokes!

This thread just blew my mind.

[Roy_Stewart]

They go better as conditions become more powerful, and are a delight to ride when it gets bigger.

I've had standup backdoor tubes on the FP12 and Makaha 9'1" and Makaha 10'4" and they handle perfectly.

The fact that the bigger boards go well in marginal conditions should not obscure the fact that they are ecxceptionally capable in 'good' waves as well.

Regarding size, although I was brought up with the ridiculous undercalling tradition, I refuse to follow it and prefer to measure waves by their actual height. This is necessary not only for logical reasons but also when calculating wave power and speed. Underrcalling is an illogical social disease which sets a precedent for the introduction of further lies and myths into the victims mind. In other words if you believe that the length a foot changes when measuring waves then youve swallowed the 'kool aid' and will believe anything.

I realise that lying about wave height as you do is required by the industrial surf club as a membership badge, but I don't have any interest in trading intelligence for membership of any group, so have no interest in the childish practice which was invented as a means of deception.

I oppose deception !

Regarding the wave shown in the picture. . . it was a beautiful high quality wave and a beautiful session.... Many people were out there trying to partake but were unable to due to poor equipment. The Dragon board was the only board in the water able to make the waves. Not a single wave was made by the other surfers in the water. That is a situation which occurs frequently. Judging by the comments here most of you are the types who sit in the carpark pretending to be tough and calling the waves crap, slop, etc etc and not good enough for your tough persona. . . because your equipment and skill levels are not up to the challenge. . .while I'm out there riding the waves. In other words you make excuses for your poor ability and equipment.

The bottom line is that my longboards outperform malibu noseriding handicap boards in all conditions.

Here's another picture from the same session further down the line from the first shot. I guarantee that if you people tried to ride that sort of wave on the 70 pound dragon board you would be experiencing the same sort of adrenaline and trepidation usually experienced on bigger waves. . . it takes some nerve and skill I assure you !








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[steve shearer]

I'd love to see some of the knockers post up some photos or video of their own surfing prowess, just to establish bona fides.
George Greenough calls waves by their face height.
He'd call that a 6-8ft wave.

Riding big heavy boards in sizey surf feels fcuking unreal, I haven't done so on a wooden board but I reckon based on my own experiences that it would be a blast.

[Roy_Stewart]

Cheers Steve. It is a blast !

Getting footage of bigger waves can be tricky at my local as it's a beachbreak which breaks way out to sea when bigger, and it is typically raining and/or thick with salt spray on bigger days as well. Add to that the fact that the photographer has a team of youngsters to look after and it's the luck of the draw footage wise. Plus since the kids started surfing I tend to pick smaller days for safety reasons. I'm looking forward to getting back in the water soon.

[bohdidontsurf]

I dont know if someone has clarified this or not and to be frank I cant be fcuked reading the rest of this pointless but amusing thread to find if they have but Roy, do you ride with a helmet on because of the weight of your boards? Usually most people wear helmets when concerned about hitting the seabed which may be reef or rock. Also do you wear leg ropes? I would hope you do the right thing by your other fellow surfers and tie that 70lb vessell to your leg??

[Roy_Stewart]

I don't wear a leash, and have an excellent safety record. I believe that the first goal of good surfing should be to stay with the board and that's what I do. I surf very carefully with great discipline, quite unlike those who fling their boards around on the end of leashes.

A leash on a 70 pound dragonboard would give a totally false sense of security, and would also be very dangerous to the user.

Reasons for use of the helmet should be perfectly obvious: protection from the elements, surfboards, the bottom, and also to make carrying the board on the head easier.

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[mustkillmulloway]

in good news roy has got a project board now his sending around oz/nz

look for in the carpark if u would like a go




p.s nice win last nite

[Roy_Stewart]

Win ?

I had a good night's sleep if that's what you mean.

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[Roy_Stewart]

As for wave heights, everyone calls 'em different. If George would call the wave in discussion 6-8ft, then in George's scale, it is 6-8ft. Again, I was pullin' the chain about Roy's call of (quote) "..at least 8ft.." That's Roy's call, and if he believes it's 8ft+, then that's his call. Would I call it 8ft+? No.

In fact the height of a wave can be determined by how many feet high it is.

Feet are not changeable according to personal taste.

My Dragon board is 13'9 long how much sense would it make to call it 6ft or 23ft long ?

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[Roy_Stewart]

as noted Roy, you do display a manner of poise riding those big logs..
but do you have any pictures where you're actually putting the board on rail?
or even making some sort of noteworthy turn (not just a subtle fade or check)?

Thankyou.

The boards are constantly using their rails.

As for 'noteworthy' turns it seems that we don't speak the same language. I prefer to surf without 'noteworthy' moments ( these are designed only for point scoring and showing off ), it's smoother that way, gives better control and is more efficient. The boards turn very well, in fact much better than malibus , but are designed to do so without fuss.

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[Roy_Stewart]

As for wave heights, everyone calls 'em different. If George would call the wave in discussion 6-8ft, then in George's scale, it is 6-8ft. Again, I was pullin' the chain about Roy's call of (quote) "..at least 8ft.." That's Roy's call, and if he believes it's 8ft+, then that's his call. Would I call it 8ft+? No.

Feet are not changeable according to personal taste.

Agreed... a foot is a foot. 12" in fact. Or 3048mm if ya wanna use a different scale.

And does it really matter whether that wave is, or is not, 24,384 millimetres high? Who gives a testosterone toss....

Geez, we've got some toing and froing goin' on here...

The commish Roy...?....

It wasn't I who introduced the subject of wave height on this thread, but in answer to your question wave height is one factor which affects the speed with which a wave lifts, so it can be interesting and informative from a surfboard design point of view.


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