Crease Fix?

Discuss shaping and repairing techniques here.

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tiger
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by tiger » Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:41 am

Hard to see in the pic how bad it is, but it's probably worth fixing.

Of course you'll have to get it done by someone proficient in epoxy. Take it back to HS, he should back up his product.
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ric_vidal
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by ric_vidal » Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:12 pm

Anything can be fixed, hallph, and no it's not going to be the same. Whether that is a bad thing or not is for you to decide.

It will be like a snap scenario, when fixed it is unlikely to break in that spot but it could well either side of it due to a mismatch in strength i.e. the repair area will end up stronger and adjacent to something that is weaker. Put that under a load and guess what happens?

Looks like an unfortunate spot too, I would be fixing, and riding with fingers crossed and saving your biccies for a new one.

Carbon fibre in small doses I reckon is a myth. Best used in LARGE doses to replace steel!

Natho
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by Natho » Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:39 pm

My experience in getting creases like that fixed is that it just means the board is highly likely to crease or snap outside of where the repair job is due to a change in flex.Along the lines of what Ric has already hinted.

I've had a couple of creases like that fixed and both times the board ended up snapping within a short period.If you think about it your board will flex, and the flex will suddenly change or stop right where the added strength of the repair is = SNAP. You may be lucky, but the board will never be the same.

Like the old carbon patches on tails.often the boards snap right on the edge of where the carbon patches stop and the chance of snapping is significantly increased if not done correctly.

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ric_vidal
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by ric_vidal » Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:11 am

Hallph, when repairing, just make sure you feather the reinforcing. Meaning if you put a couple of layers on make sure they are varying lengths and when crossing the deck, don't make it a straight cut, put a curve or make it a diamond shape. Say make a base layer a few inches (why do we use inches?) either side then a layer over the top another few inches beyond your first layer. Wet out both layers at the same time in situ and wrap the rail as much as you think is required.

Not sure I would bother with other reinforcements, depends how creative you want to get. You could route some channels in and push some lightweight something in or just rely on glass with a corrugation in it. This still falls into what Natho and I have already indicated, makes areas stronger than others so can present a new set of problems.

Remove the creased glass with a stanley knife and back fill with a mix of q-cell and resin or you can use expending foam although it tends to be very porous so you have to then use a q-cell mix. There is also some good 'knead-it. type products out there. There is another product called Microfill which is used by hobbyists, have used it many a time to keep things light.

Coarse sand anything to be glassed - 40 grit.

Only use EPOXY resin, unless you want to see a massive hole develop. Watch epoxy in volume, it get hot. FYI, there is no strength in resin, it's the the glass fibre reinforcing that does the work.

Good luck, OHS it, wear protection.

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ric_vidal
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by ric_vidal » Fri Apr 06, 2012 2:34 pm

hallph, yes mate that sounds OK (2x4), as long as you don't grind to much out of it. Make sure you glass over the carbon too.

Hard to call on the damaged glass, however if it looks compromised by way of cracks or not in contact then it isn't doing you any good so remove it.

As RichQ would say, "you have to crack eggs to make an omelette".

Scotty12345
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by Scotty12345 » Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:36 am

Hi Phil,

Sorry mate, tried to reply to your PM re 'boards' via Realsurf but it won't let me use the feature (maybe I am just a gumbie and can't figure out how to use it :)

In the meantime I figured i'd try adding to this topic and hope you get the info...apologies to anyone else who wonders what this comment is doing here!

I have an HS Hypto. In fact myself and my wife liked it so much we brought a second one!

Hypto's are sick boards and are suited to most / many of the waves here in Tas in my opinion. I surf mine at Rebounds, Bruny (middle bay), The Hobart points (Mays / Seven Mile), varios general beachies etc. etc.

I ordered a custom at 5'8" x 19 1/2 x 2 3/8 with a roundpin tail - and am 5'11" tall.

Honestly it took a couple of surfs to get used too but after that..the boards are so fast and a joy to surf. I surf them in horrible grovel to really good surf. I don't tend to surf it at places like 'wedge' but I have surfed it out at 3 to 4ft Yard (when it wasn't barrelling) and it was amazing. I'd hate not to have one in the quiver.

I found the Hypto to be a faster board than say the Shred Sled and I prefer it to the Shred Sled, mainly because of the speed the Hypto carries through flat sections on waves. But I'd surf the Shred Sled at a local wave like Wedge instead of a Hypto.

Good luck board shopping!

Scotty12345
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Re: Crease Fix?

Post by Scotty12345 » Tue Dec 04, 2012 10:58 pm

Hey Phil,

Funny, i just got hold of the same model Shred Sled King (Shred Sled Step Up) two or so weeks ago, glassed heavy as yours is.

I hadn't really ridden a quad (only a couple of odd waves on borrowed boards) before and the couple of test surfs I have had on it have me itching to get it out at Yard or just something with a bit of size too it. Board is fast and has great hold without feeling 'stuck' on a the wave face.

Anyway, glad you got the info on the Hypto. I reckon as a two board quiver the Shred Sled Step Up and a Hypto would be pretty good foils for one another.

I know some of the HS boards are manufactured via Global Surf Industries but mine came all from the Mona Vale HS factory.

It's Tassie, Iikely we will run into each other at the beach sooner or later.

Cheers Scotty

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