make stool, not war

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pirate_agenda
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:13 pm

that last post may have been confusing, I can't computer cut anything and the slab is literally a slab, not one of the blanks from southshore.

I can hotwire it off for you to closely resemble your profile, then all you need to do is cut the outline clean up the rocker and profile, put your bottom contours in, shape your rails and deck and done!

PM me if you want

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Sun Dec 09, 2012 1:35 am

Matticus Finch wrote:
pirate_agenda wrote:that last post may have been confusing

No, I knew what you meant, I saw a photo of your block of foam the day you got it I think, I'm still keen but wary of epoxy. Did you manage to get the RR from Byrne yet?

pirate_agenda wrote:the slabs are perfect for mini simmons style boards. you can get 23 wide and 3 1/4 thick out of them. I've done a 5'8 x 22 x 3 mini with an 18" tail no probs!

I came pretty close to driving up and getting one today! Managed to hold back and spent my money on Xmas presents for my kids instead though. I should have taken some proper measurements of the slab before I cut into it, I remembered the tail being more pulled in, but I guess if you cut a foot off the tail that changes things. I took a photo of it so I'll go back and find that.

pirate_agenda wrote:i found his cutting price not so bad - certainly less than what I was expecting, and really for me, an hour each way to the north side plus tolls, petrol etc, the blank and cut would need to work out at about $30 cheaper!!


Yep, my time is certainly something a place a lot more value on nowadays, I got quoted $70 for a cut and other places are doing it for $30. Not overly keen on going the machine route for what I'm doing but it's something I do want to try once.

Did you see this board the other day.
4'6" x 22" x 20 1/2" x 19 1/2" x 3"
Image

He has some interesting stuff, https://www.facebook.com/pages/HIGH-TID ... 8552812143


haha yeah i did see that thing the other day - my thoughts - it wont work for 99% of people the way 6'0 x 17 x 2 didn;t work for 99% of people!

check your pm's re blanks!

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:32 pm

yep in 25c weather the kinetics fast has a 3 hour flip, 5 hour sand time, the regular is a 5-6 hour flip, 10 hour sand time. You can speed both of these up if you heat the room. i get my bay heated up pretty nicely and can normally flip in under 2 hours with the fast.

things to look out for are making sure everything is clean so the epoxy doesn't become contaminated. getting your mix ratios spot on, making sure you mix it very well and not leaving it in the pot for too long. Ie try and empty your pot within 2-3 minutes of finishing mixing - otherwise it can heat right up.

even with the fast, you have a lot more time than with poly. I only use the slow for vac bagging, where you need a lot longer for the resin to be drawn out by the vacuum.

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:43 pm

Yes, M-F, what P-A said… I find it can be best to mix by weight rather than volume. Stir well, scraping the sides and bottom

The part A of epoxy can be very thick and the hardener very liquid. As epoxy goes off it gets thicker.

According to Kinetix, pot life for H125 is 35mins, H130 is 15 mins. Used in conjunction with Kinetix 110X.

Watch Greg Loehr (Resin Research) a master of the stuff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGZL4tu3JbU

Use a hard squeegee and drag it out… more about resin to glass ratio. You supposedly need less, experience hasn't really supported that, but that could be me.

Polyester is brittle, epoxy more flexible and a lot more expensive.

When sanding, keep moving, it gets hot and soft rather than cutting like poly. Pretty sure we added wax in styrene to epoxy fillers even for EPS boards. Foam should be sufficiently sealed from the lamination.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Wed Dec 12, 2012 1:51 pm

i'm using the ultra white kinetics. Don't like it as much as RR, but it does the job.

I haven't had to microwave any. it comes out pretty thick, but once you mix it well with the hardener it is plenty runny to spread and wet out the cloth.

shapers told me not to mix anything with the resin for hot coating. so i didn't for the first one and it came out not so great. have been mixing RR additive F in my hot coats since and they have been coming out better with no issues. just half a cap to a 300ml hotcoat.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by diggerdickson » Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:46 am

Pic of the draws pls. :) love this thread
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by Beerfan » Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:36 am

pirate_agenda wrote:i'm using the ultra white kinetics. Don't like it as much as RR, but it does the job.

I haven't had to microwave any. it comes out pretty thick, but once you mix it well with the hardener it is plenty runny to spread and wet out the cloth.

shapers told me not to mix anything with the resin for hot coating. so i didn't for the first one and it came out not so great. have been mixing RR additive F in my hot coats since and they have been coming out better with no issues. just half a cap to a 300ml hotcoat.



Sorry to hijack, but where'd ya get add F ???
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:43 pm

Beerfan wrote:
pirate_agenda wrote:i'm using the ultra white kinetics. Don't like it as much as RR, but it does the job.

I haven't had to microwave any. it comes out pretty thick, but once you mix it well with the hardener it is plenty runny to spread and wet out the cloth.

shapers told me not to mix anything with the resin for hot coating. so i didn't for the first one and it came out not so great. have been mixing RR additive F in my hot coats since and they have been coming out better with no issues. just half a cap to a 300ml hotcoat.



Sorry to hijack, but where'd ya get add F ???


left overs from my last RR order. it is only paraffin wax in styrene or something anyway (don't quote me on exactly what it is). I have been using RR for my last couple of batches of resin, and really like it.

Although I am finding the kinetics is good to hotcoat and sand, now I have figured how much to use the add F. I just like that with fast RR I can flip and sand really quickly, which helps when i'm trying to do a few boards at once and I only have room for either 3 drying if i'm not doing any other work, or 1 drying and 1 working on normally.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by rmb » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:00 pm

Awesome read Matticus from start to finish, Gonna give it a go for sure.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by dUg » Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:26 pm

Interesting what you're saying about templates and not quite fitting / doing by feel Matticus. I had the same experience with my latest, and it ended up performing better than anything I've shaped to date.

Your stands look a lot like mine... old 20ltr drums filled with quickset, right? :lol:

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:55 am

Matticus Finch wrote:Followed Rics advice and tried the circular saw. Made me really nervous, and had the fence slip back down a few times which locked the saw in place, but it works really well, nice clean edge with barely any tidying up required afterwards.

All in the technique, MF, hope you stood on the opposite side of the blank when you were cutting?

FWIW, Rich had also disabled the return spring on the fence.

Nose and tail areas where the curve is more pronounced you need to take a few runs at to remove the excess band.

Looks like you got a good result though.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by swvic » Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:39 pm

When I was a tradie, it was not that uncommon for people to doctor the guard on a power saw. I witnessed two very serious accidents. I'm not saying don't do it, just never forget that you have

Accident 1. Kick back into the inside of the calf, missing the bone by a mere few mm

Accident 2. Chippy cutting on stands. Gets interuppted, puts his foot on a stand and "rests" the the still spinning saw blade across his quad

Scenario 1 improbable if on the other side of a blank. Scenario 2 always a risk until the blade stops spinning
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:04 pm

I'm with SWVIC, like any tool it has it's risks, but once you have your technique down it feels quite safe.

You need to get the air out pretty quick to properly vac using polyester resin, MF. Not sure whether the resin would stick but I doubt it. Why not do a small test?

Better still why not use your epoxy.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by swvic » Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:36 pm

Yeah MF, you need to do it with something so lightweight as a blank. I'm guilty of holding the guard open with my opposite thumb to start a cut on timber when I want reasonable accuracy. Otherwise, when the guard first comes up against the timber, the change in resistance can cause a slight skew. Like Ric said, it's all about developing technique via familiarity

Most power saws should have a spring that you can remove pretty easily if you take the blade off. Then use a bit of string, tie wire, etc. to hold the guard open. Just make sure it's secure enough not to come loose and catch anywhere
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by gabsouy » Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:58 pm

any reason for wrapping the cork around the rail ? why not stop it where a old style cut lap would be ?

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by gabsouy » Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:23 pm

i wonder if sections of cork would work as in deck grip size pieces ,front and rear feet spots ,or tail to 3/4 of the way up the deck in grid style ? its probably been done [swaylocks]

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:41 pm

gabsouy wrote:i wonder if sections of cork would work as in deck grip size pieces ,front and rear feet spots ,or tail to 3/4 of the way up the deck in grid style ? its probably been done [swaylocks]


it definitely ha been used that way. drewtang did a few of his early ones like that, and i've seem a few sups over at sways with it like that.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Tue Feb 05, 2013 3:56 pm

Matticus Finch wrote:Had planned on doing this one in epoxy but I only used about half the UV resin I expected to on the last board so I'll probably just use up the rest on this one.

Don't run out half way through…

My thinking on these and short shorties, can be pretty flat rocker, but never ridden anything under a 5'11".

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