make stool, not war

Discuss shaping and repairing techniques here.

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diggerdickson
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by diggerdickson » Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:34 am

ive done 2 filler coats on my attempts guys, the first one I really concentrate on sanding really well, after thats done I then put on another really thin filler, which dont need that much sanding at all.
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:04 am

MF, learning, learning, learning, you can't or shouldn't never sand laminating resin. Don't worry about the dags unless they are real easy to remove with a blade, just filler the board, then grind 'em.

If this exposes lots of weave (not foam :twisted:) then you can apply more filler or clear coat with acrylic and give a light hand sand.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by gabsouy » Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:27 am

just about everyone on swaylocks sands or attempts to sand the laminate........i use a pair of nailclippers to get rid of the longer dags , and as rc says filler coat then sand- sand the lam must be a yank thing.

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:12 pm

Speaking of Yanks, I have seen quite a few US boards and they were full of exposed weave, something they seem(ed) less concerned about. They were however nice and flat.

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:38 pm

give it a sand, and if it's getting too thin in some places, while others are still low and shiny, then hit it with another filler coat. that way it will be smoother than the first one and easier to sand! If you add another one straight away, chances are it will build up on the highs, and not really fix the problem spots.

diggerdickson
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by diggerdickson » Tue Nov 20, 2012 11:16 pm

pirate_agenda wrote:give it a sand, and if it's getting too thin in some places, while others are still low and shiny, then hit it with another filler coat. that way it will be smoother than the first one and easier to sand! If you add another one straight away, chances are it will build up on the highs, and not really fix the problem spots.



Hey pirate, this is what I found also.
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:12 am

Hate to be a hard but you shouldn't have to go back and re fill anything other than a slight shiny.

Another tip Matticus before you take on the bottom but may be too late, and this is kind of a little harder to explain…

When you do your deck filler, and this goes for both passes, gravity :roll: will want it to run off, we know this. To minimise the amount of resin pooling and running off the board, run around the underside of the rail with a small brush held very upright.

There is a technique to this where you just let a small portion of the bristles come slightly up the rail but when you reach the nose and tail move them more to the underside as you tend to need more resin left in those areas.

The other reason for doing this is you baste some resin on the lap on the bottom of the board in this process. This is extremely important as it then allows you to flip the board when cured and sand down the lap on the bottom straight away. Get it flat with 40 grit or similar and sand down your rail to where you want to put your tape line for the bottom filler to run off the board without getting onto the deck.

When you put the tape on, pull it out so it hangs vertically if possible. Don't let the tape sit to high around the tail area, it works against you, resin will sit like a meniscus - just a fraction higher is enough.

Remember, when you filler the bottom, do the pre-fill INSIDE the lap area for the main section of the board, this acts to level it all that much more, relative to the bottom laps. Extra resin where you need it around the fin area, tail rails (watch for voids here) and nose.

Hope that makes sense.

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Thu Nov 22, 2012 9:09 am

Matticus Finch wrote:Wind was wrong too and my filler coat got a nice dusting just before it went off. No photos today, forgot the camera again.

May just be sitting on top, MF. You'd be surprised what a sand will yield.

Feel as though you already have the bug, which is good.

Plugs next…

diggerdickson
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by diggerdickson » Thu Nov 22, 2012 2:53 pm

Ive never done plugs mate, so really looking forward to your pics and reading how you did this, plugs sorta freak me out doing them, but thats only cause I aint done it yet. ive only glassed on fins. Give a good detail mate on how you did it, cant wait for the next instalment
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by diggerdickson » Thu Nov 22, 2012 10:37 pm

thanks for the stickers mate, ive stuck some on the drivers window already :D
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:16 pm

thanks for the like on instagram matticus ... your page is .... ahhhh..... disturbing.

diggerdickson
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by diggerdickson » Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:35 pm

haaaaaa, now your thinking vac bag, oh man your hooked :-) Im even thinking of becoming a dogs body in a factory and earning next to nothing for a while, whilst working in the shop, just to gain more experience, In a sence I want to do this for rest of life, but its baby steps for me, just tiny little baby steps leading into poor pay but a fulfilling lifestyle, no more chasing my tail and money for this small duck. :D
no, Im not a surfer, Im just a garbage man".

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by gabsouy » Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:01 pm

you can always respray your sandthroughs [yellow] before repairing them..

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:22 am

More tip time…

Run legrope plug with the s/s pin running along the stringer, not across it. Why? Minimises the chance of a pin pull-out. Believe me a bit of resin won't stop an angry pin punching into the foam and lifting one end out, but a stringer will.

Wouldn't worry about sanding plugs either it will have minimal impact, that is why the lip and or other mouldings are there. Exception being perhaps longboard boxes, but give them a good score, even then they usually still separate. Resin, just won't stick to plastic that well, it is pretty much that simple. Various manufacturers recommend you can dip into styrene to get a chemical bond, but that is probably not something you want to play with.

Not sure about the roving wrap of the pro-boxes, M-F, I think it MAY just give a greater chance of voids in the resin. Think about what happens with normal glass-on fins and there installation it can be a bugger to wet out rovings and removing bubbles, they need lots of working. Apart from which what are you reinforcing? You shouldn't need to reinforce the box itself and no matter what you do you are still just butting against the surrounding foam. There are better ways, but they are more complicated - think HD inserts.

When filling fin plugs it is best to fill from one point only, don't move around, just let the resin do it's work and overflow to your dam, 'tis a liquid after all. After you get that far then you can move around to any possible voids. Least this is the case with FCS-style plugs.

I must admit I still have a problem with any fin systems that isn't in contact with the deck, they just lend themselves to box roll if you ask me. But that is a topic for another day.

Carry on, M-F. :mrgreen:

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:17 pm

M-F, you'll love it… you always do when you make one yourself, warts and all.

The graphics look good, as did the logo and have spotted a few other things along the way that leads me to suspect we might be in a similar or associated industries.

I'm actually a graphic designer by trade, the board building was hobby gone wrong and it started to take over. We won't talk about the garage floor that was. :lol:

And FYI, haven't touched a ProBox so apologies for the rovings comment.

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ric_vidal
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by ric_vidal » Wed Dec 05, 2012 12:06 pm

wingnut2443 wrote:
ric_vidal wrote: ... the board building was hobby gone wrong and it started to take over. We won't talk about the garage floor that was ...


Full story and photo's RV ... it's the Real Surf way :wink: :mrgreen:

Ha, I might document the next one, been in hibernation for well over a year. Just informed the blank is ready for pick-up. 1 x surfblank's pink coming up.

Going to be a slightly different build this one. Starting with my first AKU-based design.

I'll start a new thread so we don't interfere with Matticus…

pirate_agenda
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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Fri Dec 07, 2012 11:18 pm

don't need to go to the northside for a cut MF, the guy you got your blanks from has a machine!

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Re: make stool, not war

Post by pirate_agenda » Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:05 pm

Matticus Finch wrote:
pirate_agenda wrote:the guy you got your blanks from has a machine!

Yep, I've watched a few getting cut, but he wants almost as much for the cut as the blank plus I want a different blank to what I've seen there, thinking about a simmons inspired thing, which I guess is right up your ally, have you been making yours from "slabs" I want more width in the tail. I'll talk to him about it before I cross that bridge (Sydney Harbour), it might just be that I have to ask for a blank to be made up.

wingnut2443 wrote:Did he mention to file down the tabs? Did you do it?

Um - I don't know what you mean so I guess not... What tabs?

wingnut2443 wrote:What did you end up doing with the bottom contours?

Well i hope you aren't going to write off the single to double concave with vee based on a fellah on the internets first board but that's what I did! I think it's me though. I've managed to slide the tail out a few times, and even today in smaller waves I managed to turn it a bit more. 6 months out of the water is a long long time, I used to feel out of touch and 'off' after only two weeks. I can't really bend too much, my lower back just sort of lets go in a certain range of motion, and I cant bring my knees up towards my chest very well, hard to get up or squat down low on the board, which I guess makes turning a bit harder and I have no real core muscle strength. A few months of stretching and regular exercise plus losing 5-10kgs should see me there though, the light at the end of the tunnel is looking kinda bright now.


the slabs are perfect for mini simmons style boards. you can get 23 wide and 3 1/4 thick out of them.

i've done a 5'8 x 22 x 3 mini with an 18" tail no probs!

i found his cutting price not so bad - certainly less than what I was expecting, and really for me, an hour each way to the north side plus tolls, petrol etc, the blank and cut would need to work out at about $30 cheaper!!

PS I have an EPS slab I can cut you a blank from if you like for a mini simms.

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