RealSurf Surfers' Forum

wingnut2443 wrote: Last one I did (yesterday) I did all with the squeegee, and ended up with a few long cloth stings pushed toward the stringer on the 'under side' ... I just find I need to bend / crouch down and end up with resin fumes in the face and usually resin in my eyebrows

Onya Wingy, now you have it. It isn't essential, but it can make a difference.

You can use the brush to drag those long strands back toward the lap line. Can be a bit different if you don't use 'normal' glass weave though. I have seen others just tease long strands off the blank and let them hang. Wait until they cure then just snap off. They can be a destructive bastard to remove otherwise especially on a painted blank.

Mate, I pretty much haven't touched a board for over a year other than to fix one of mine I loaned to a friend and he did a plug in.

Used to be the case as soon as I pick up a squeegee I would start to sweat with anxiety, another reason I migrated toward epoxy, but it has it's idiosyncrasies.

Was watching Rich (Pure) last week as he was laminating a few Rusty shorties and he was trying to get me back into the industry in some fashion, can't make up my mind if I miss the smell or not. The bastard makes it look so easy it isn't funny. Comes from doing tens of thousands.

Never forget the day Rich and I made a 9 footer in one day, from shape to finish. Can't really be doing that with MEKP…

wingnut2443 wrote:

ric_vidal wrote: ... Never forget the day Rich and I made a 9 footer in one day, from shape to finish. Can't really be doing that with MEKP…

Funny you say that, cause that's what I am working towards ... machine cut blank, so finish that, laminate with UV, and the if daylight left, UV hotcoat, or MEKP if not ... light sand, probox fin system in and leash plug, then sand into the afternoon evening ...

The difference being - no machine shape, Rich roughed out the shape before he went to another job, I finished the shaping, did the lams, fillers and then we just FCS plugged it with a fairly warm resin… tehe

Rich sanded and delivered it that evening.

Go Matticus, can't wait for the pictures… whatever it is i'm sure we've all been there, and then some.

I had to repair some beauties, primarily where people had tried to fix EPS boards with polyester resin.

did good matticus, did real good son

If you get up this way we have definately got a blank to finish shaping together wingnut, the rails and tail to be done on it, will be fun, fongs got my stands, we will see if there is time on sunday over a beer. Got some lighting if you want it or will just chuck it.

As for the fup fairy, I love that logo and its going on the next board I do for sure, just dont know when It will be.

The biatch has not been hanging around the bus at all, so just hope I havent jinked myself in saying that.

Matticus, that is looking good mate and god knows photos never lie...

My only advice when shaping and doing steps, do one step one side, then immediately try and duplicate on the other. Too pharking hard to complete one side and then think you can duplicate it on the other.

Trust your hands, eyes, walk away from it, go for a surf, come back and look with fresh eyes.

I don't think I ever did a board from start to finish in one session, but then I was never really in a hurry.

"people kept pushing up against me, there were women saturated in horrible perfumes", I was wondering where this was going for a minute.

I liked how you kept your cool, all ya gotta do now is remember where the fup fuc*3er visited and correct it for next time, well done mate, well done

Pretty good recovery Matticus, I wouldn't sweat it, it's going to be a blast.

Too be honest, I thought the time you had been indicated for the resin was way way off the mark, but not my a place to intervene. You won't get the times you were quoted even with epoxy, although it won't be cure. First board I ever glassed I did the same thing with a full recovery.

Couple of other points for future reference:

- when you paint a board, the paint needs sealing with a clear acrylic to stop it bleeding. Yours won't be too obvious as it is all the one colour. Septone clear automotive acrylic is pretty easy to acquire.

- not sure on this one, but it LOOKS like you painted the stringer too. Don't, it seals the wood and you will have trouble getting a good bond. Thin 3M tape to mask first, leave on for the clear coat too.

- don't reverse tape a painted board, it will drag the paint off the blank when you lift it. Ala what happened with your rail tidy up. You just have to make sure the board is well positioned on the stands, and yes it may lift off to a degree, but don't worry.

- leggy plug can also be done with hole saw. Move the bit back, build-up tape around the outside to the right depth. Then tidy up with your forstner bit

FWIW, flying boards, done it. Hot mix, done it, no flames YET! The classic though is the NO catalyst resin mix, which I haven't done, but I have witnessed it a couple of times.

More to it than meets the eye eh?

So what's happening with fins as that can get real ugly?

good thread that one aint it.

Really admire the efforts MF and a good laugh or 3 thrown in. Great sticker

Matticus Finch wrote:So at this stage, I'm thinking I will just lap the 6oz from the deck, and use the 4oz cut to deck size, since half the rails are missing the bottom lap I figure it might benefit from the 6oz. I cant see myself 'patching' the rails too well and I guess my only other option is to just paint some resin on.
I've been holding back on doing anything this week, but I'm going to start to clean it up and prepare for the deck lam in the next few days and hopefully do it on or before the weekend.

MF, don't you have a reasonable amount of glass on the rail still? It's all about the curve section that gives the strength not so much about how far the lap continues as it becomes flat and then subject to flex and compression.

What I am saying is you may still be better to stick with the 6oz zipper cut and 4oz over. Reason being, 6oz is quite bulky and will be harder to blend to your bottom surface.

Apart from which, do you care to that extent what becomes of this board? I mean that in the nicest possible way, but my attitude was if I ever broke one that was the way it was meant to be.

Epoxy is a LOT more expensive and comes with it's very own extra special baggage, you have been warned. Some are better than others for their non-yellowing. Ask before going down that path.

You can buy one off hole saws, just don't forget to move the centre drill or you may get another visit from the F-up fairy.

Good stuff MF, keep going!!

love the look of that little planner mate, I gotta get me one of those one day plus a mini spoke shave, but patience for me on that score. I love yours and wingnuts threads, keep it up lads. Hey Beerfan, havent seen much pics from ya lately lad, whats happening in your bay.

Ozito = gold for backyarders.

bloody oath you can post me some stickers mate, awesome. My address is 48 mckinnon drive tewantin 4565. Im only here for a few more days, next sunday at the very latest.

Yep, another Ozito/Shapers backyarder here!
Loving the 2 year warranty on the Ozito stuff, I have had a couple of them 'accidentally' expire at the 23 month mark and they have been swapped by the lovely folk at Bunnings with hardly a second glance.....

The board is looking great Matticus. I reckon thats a pretty good recovery on the rails, you wont even notice after doing the deck lam and a bit of sanding. I have only ever used UV for that reason, I reckon it takes me a good 15min to do a side. I tend to fuss around with details and stress about the little things when glassing, so dont trust myself with normal catalyst. Get that roof covered up!

saltman wrote:Decals my 0.02
Ricepaper (try art and craft supplies about $6 for a sheet that will give you about 5 x A4 sheets )
Cut them into A4 sizes
iron them flat with a warm iron
Print in an inkjet printer

Been there too Saltman, ended up to be a bit easier for me to lightly tack the rice paper to an A4 carrier sheet.

I just use a quick hit of spray adhesive on the paper (not the rice paper) let it tack off then smooth the rice paper over it. Also use a very basic setting for your print output as this stuff is pretty porous.

I found this process tends to minimise the creases and gives a decent job for b&w. Colour is always a bit more of an issue, too much ink I think.

Better still, get Ian at Surfdecals to output an A3 sheet.

Matticus Finch wrote: Did I mention the roof has holes.
[img]http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz75 ... /moist.jpg[/img

Another good reason to seal the paint, Matticus. May not have stopped it but it could have minimised.

Not going to have an impact on performance.

Lessons 101

mate, I love your work, love your enthusiasm and cant wait to see your next one u work on, its looking the goods mate, really is.

ive done 2 filler coats on my attempts guys, the first one I really concentrate on sanding really well, after thats done I then put on another really thin filler, which dont need that much sanding at all.

MF, learning, learning, learning, you can't or shouldn't never sand laminating resin. Don't worry about the dags unless they are real easy to remove with a blade, just filler the board, then grind 'em.

If this exposes lots of weave (not foam ) then you can apply more filler or clear coat with acrylic and give a light hand sand.