epoxy

[huie]

I've been using the Kinetix R 104? I like the final product, been doing lams and fillers with it. It's ok to sand as long as you leave it a day or 2. But yeah, it's annoying how long it takes to go off. Not such a problem for me as I've always got other stuff to do, but it would be a pain in higher production.

Keen to have a look at some other epoxies with faster kick times, so will definitely look John up when I need some more. Has anyone tried the Kwik Kick that Greg Loer bangs on about on swaylocks?

tim its all ABOUT THE TEMP R104 IS GREAT IN SUMMER THIS ONE IS A QUICKER ABOUT THE SAME AS GREGS

[tiger]

Thanks Huie. Been happy with the Kinetix stuff generally, even with the long gel times it doesn't drain out. Like I said doesn't bother me too much as I'm just doing boards here and there, no real rush. Be a right pain if you needed to push things through quicker though.

[huie]

Thanks Huie. Been happy with the Kinetix stuff generally, even with the long gel times it doesn't drain out. Like I said doesn't bother me too much as I'm just doing boards here and there, no real rush. Be a right pain if you needed to push things through quicker though.

yea the r110 is a bit slower than poly to kick but in this temp will harden out just about as quick

[seethesea75]

RR Kwik kick is OK. Best used as a filler coat. It has serious issues laminating PU foam. Do not do this.

It also browns quickly, much more so than RR regular. The normal RR is a good speed but browns more than Kinetix which people find too slow. No great middle ground??? Apparently the issue is with speed and colour, its hard to make resin that stays clear and goes off quickly, something in the hardener acts to brown it off.

Speed is an issue for production but if the factory has enough racks or production methods altered so that epoxy is done in the afternoons so left overnight to cure when closed it is not so much of an issue.

[huie]

Thanks Huie. Been happy with the Kinetix stuff generally, even with the long gel times it doesn't drain out. Like I said doesn't bother me too much as I'm just doing boards here and there, no real rush. Be a right pain if you needed to push things through quicker though.

yea the kinetix is as good as any fong has a board done with r110 dont think its gone yellow yet

ferk why buy yank shit

cheers huie

[Beerfan]

I might have to give the epoxy on PU a go. I just ordered a shed, and thinking i was smart, ordered it with 2 skylights, so i could shape in the day without needing lights. After i'd ordered i realised UV polyester resin probably wouldn't work well in those conditions haha. Always been keen to try it.

beerfan, let me know if you want johns number mate, I can pm it to you, he is down kawana way

Cheers digger, gotta get the garden shed set up first. Its smaller than my old shed, but it'll have to do. WOnt be shaping any longboards hahah

[dUg]

I've been using the Kinetix R 104? I like the final product, been doing lams and fillers with it. It's ok to sand as long as you leave it a day or 2. But yeah, it's annoying how long it takes to go off. Not such a problem for me as I've always got other stuff to do, but it would be a pain in higher production.

Keen to have a look at some other epoxies with faster kick times, so will definitely look John up when I need some more. Has anyone tried the Kwik Kick that Greg Loer bangs on about on swaylocks?

tim its all ABOUT THE TEMP R104 IS GREAT IN SUMMER THIS ONE IS A QUICKER ABOUT THE SAME AS GREGS

I'm hoping to head back into the shed with the foam mower around the start of October, contract extensions permitting. It'll be epoxy / EPS for sure.

Any supplier leads on this stuff?

[tiger]

I think fgi handle it Dug. Huie or Gibber would know.

[feraldave]

Ok Fgi has the cheapest surfboard one, also the quickest to brown... ATL makes and has the kinetics or you can buy it via shapers...
John gillis has the best one.. I don't have his contacts handy but a quick google will get his website..

[diggerdickson]

Ok Fgi has the cheapest surfboard one, also the quickest to brown... ATL makes and has the kinetics or you can buy it via shapers...
John gillis has the best one.. I don't have his contacts handy but a quick google will get his website..

Anyone that wants Johns contact let me know via pm, I can pass on his number to you, at the moment he is down in Sydney on holidays with his boy and wont be back till school goes back in queensland. He is happy for me to pass on his number to anyone that wants to talk to him but no use calling him while on holiday, he will be to busy with family......

[Beerfan]

Hey digger, is john's resin for both laminating and filler coats??. Glassing is hard enough without changing resins halfway,through!!

[pirate_agenda]

Hey digger, is john's resin for both laminating and filler coats??. Glassing is hard enough without changing resins halfway,through!!

i'm interested in the same question.

I have only used poly resin up to now (only glassed 6 boards now), but need to switch to epoxy because the odour of poly wafts through the whole house.

What do you epoxy regulars use for hotcoating?

How do you find the glassing process compared to poly, is it much harder? I don't want to be spending $30/ a board extra on resin only to F it up.

[diggerdickson]

from my limited understanding you get more time than resin with cat, and you also use the epoxy for filler, but I could be totally wrong, havent used it yet but am going to on my next board instead of uv to try it. I am interested in this answer as well.

[pirate_agenda]

i've read different reports. greg loher on sways says you can hotcoat with additive F (whatever that is). Others say to hotcoat with poly.

Apparently it doesn't "kick" like poly, but just gradually goes off.

Interested to hear from some epoxy regulars.

[tiger]

It's kinda like poly filler resin. Being that you need "key" the surface when applying another coat. Some just give it good scrub with a white scotch/scourer pad, along with some water. This helps remove the amine's which is like the wax in poly filler that settles on the top. I give it a light sand all over with 120, along with the scourer pad. Either way if you use poly or epoxy for the filler, you'll need to do this.

As for ease of use, it is still the resin component of the glass job, and the techniques for laminating etc do not differ. The preparation is a little more fiddly. Your hardner to resin ratio need to be spot on, and it must be very well stirred.

Compared to glassing with poly, UV or reg MEKP, it's a bit of a pain in the arse. Mainly due to the slow kick time. Especially with filler coats, gives lots of time for bugs and stuff to go for a swim in your nicely laid out gloss coat .

[Natho]

Shapers/ those in the know. Im getting some new custom boards and Im getting them in EPS/ Epoxy construction for a change.
Due to the added float and pop of the EPS/ Epoxy construction can I go slightly thinner than a normal PU equivalent board? Im thinking of going 1/16 - 1/8 thinner than my normal PU boards. Any thoughts?

[ric_vidal]

Shapers/ those in the know. Im getting some new custom boards and Im getting them in EPS/ Epoxy construction for a change.
Due to the added float and pop of the EPS/ Epoxy construction can I go slightly thinner than a normal PU equivalent board? Im thinking of going 1/16 - 1/8 thinner than my normal PU boards. Any thoughts?

Natho, asked a similar question on the CompSand forum. Answer I got was to leave it the same... pity I can't arrive at a size/shape/width/thickness for myself.

Why not start with one and see how it feels before committing to the next?

Lighter board will float higher. If it's a new custom HS, it may not be THAT light.

Huie and Josh are your best go to guys.

[Natho]

Thanks Ric, I meant to say XPS/ Epoxy not EPS.

A mate of mine who is on the team of the shaper I am getting the boards from always seems to go 1/8 thinner in his boards because he says they float that much more. He also goes finer in the rails.

Does anyone else have an opinion?