Filler repair

[daleknowles]

I'm sure this has been covered, but.... I have never mixed that powder with resin to fill in holes in my board, and I just did so the other day... after thinking about it, I realized I did not add any of the chemical hardener... will it still harden, or do I need to do it over,.... what should I do? I have only ever done basic board repair before, this board need the fin taken off and under it scraped out a fair bit as it was damaged, so I filled it in pretty nicely, but like I said, no hardener...

Thanks for the input... feel free to insult me (Kook, newbie, poof, and canuck are a few suggestions), I have thick skin (and a thick wetsuit).

[Beerfan]

If you didn't add catalyst, it wont go off. You could mix up some more resin, adding a little more catalyst than you need, then coat the area. Im no expert, but that's what i'd do. It would be a pain to clean it all off with acetone, but i guess you could do it.

Ric-vidal will probably chime in, he's the man so listen to what he suggests.

[wanto]

might as well have tried to fix it with tooth paste!

[ric_vidal]

Thanks for the input... I have thick skin (and a thick wetsuit).

Jeezus DK you kook, newbie, poof, and canuck...

Tonto is right, so is Beerf, scrape it off and do it again. You might want to use some acetone (sparingly) as well to get rid of the residue. Funnily enough when you mix in q-cell make it about the consistency of toothpaste. The reason for its use is it is a bulking agent so a lot lighter than just resin, also it tends to stop it from cracking if you just do resin only and there is fair bulk.

If you are doing UNDER a fin make sure there is a fair bit of reinforcement. This is after the q-cell bit d*ckhead. Say 2 layers of 4oz, if you are glassing a fin on over the area only use laminating resin (not filler resin with wax in it) this will ensure a good bond, but make sure what you are going over is well sanded (keyed) so all this is going to blend in (or not ). Then filler the whole (hole no don’t) thing and sand to your hearts content.

Good luck Dale!

[daleknowles]

Ric Vidal, you are the man,

So I followed what you said (it's been a while, But I've been busy) and have filled in the holes, sanded, glassed it, and am about to sand again and attach the fin tonight. I have some 'fin rope' and will use it and some fibre to attach it, I think I know how to get it angled right, as I looked at some pictures online and watched an indonesian fix one of my other fins at Padang one time.. but do you have any tips.

BTW, a long time ago I posted that this is a fairly old/unique board and described it, but my Digi was broken, so when I'm finished fixing it I will post a picture to see if anyone can identify it, it has been been painted, but... we'll see (I'm guessing 35yrs old).

PS depending on how the repair looks it may be blurred out...

[ric_vidal]

but do you have any tips.

dk, yeah, don’t smoke

Now on the fin... saw a normal angle copier thingo used in carpentry as a source to copy fin angles, good idea if you own one. I just use cardboard templates and good old eye to double check.

Keep in mind, Dale, adhereing the fin should be with laminating resin as should have been the initial repair. If it isn’t and you have used filler resin it should now be well keyed with a very coarse sand paper otherwise it won’t grip too well and the whole thing could lift off. Why? You aren’t getting the same chemical bond between laminating and filler resin.

Don’t forget to put layers of glass OVER the rovings. Suggest 2 per side (4oz) over the entire fin and out from the base. Allow for an overlap of the fin by an 1/2 to 1" and trim back with a Stanley blade when firm enough to cut, but preferably not fully cured.

Also take in the base area onto the bottom of your board, but this area of glass should be more than an 1" wide (maybe 2 - 3") and cut that area in an oval shape.

If you have used laminating resin you should now paint over this with filler so it sands properly. If you have used filler then belt straight into it, but you will need to cover the whole thing again with filler resin to fill the voids in the weave and get it all smooth and blended properly.

[smallhouse]

i'm wondering if this powder /resin mix is light enough to fill a rather large hole. (about 1l in volume ). then glass over, or if there is something lighter. ? cheers.

[wanto]

i wouldn't worry about the weight as much as the heat! you're better off using some foam or doing it in a few layers because one large mass of reacting resin gets really hot, and the resin will crack as it changes shape.

if you use foam, remember that foam will float in resin, so you might want to weight or tape it in, or fix it in with a first layer of resin, then fill the gaps in a second go.

[smallhouse]

finally attempting the repair mentioned above .
an area about 750 by 250 by 15 mm deep has sunken on the bottom of this board due to exposure to fire.
some of the rail needs reforming. 2 layers so far of "toothpaste" ( about 400ml volume so far ) and its still not up to level to be sanded .
will weight be an issue?
on a separate tack i recently glassed in a new centre fin on an old thruster , and unfortunately managed to have it pointing to a point slightly (but noticeably) to the left of the nose.
big deal? , or try it and see. thanks for any help.

[tiger]

I've got a small hole in the bottom of my board, from an incident with a clueless Israeli backpacker last week.

[tiger]

Oh, did I say small? I meant to say.....

GIGANTIC!!!!!

[eMpowered]

Ah repairs........ Those were the day's.