RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Well....we've just had record heatwaves followed by record rainfall. Maybe a 28 day swell on the way.

2 guys out right now, which has been about the average all week. It's all yours if you don't mind paddling around in floodwater that smells like dead cows and catshit.

I'd say your immune system would thank you for it.

steve shearer wrote:I'd say your immune system would thank you for it.

your banks get hammered in that storm?

hard to say at this stage....there's been incredible amounts of sand shunted around, possibility of some total hall of fame sand when it settles, but alot of what was pretty epic sand looks to have been pushed wide. It's still there but needs time to settle and come back to papa.

Lots of bulls about ATM.

Surfed maroubra early with some fun sideband peaks from the start of the building south swell.

Then went to check out Coogee reef and wedding cake . Hard to judge size from the distance, but the cake looked to be already nearly double overhead.

Coogee reef I'm not that fussed about. But I'd like to finally have a piece of cake

Hopefully I can luck some favourable winds with the next proper big south swell. Biggest board I've got is only an 8'0 which is meant to be the minimum practical entry ticket for the wave

halfway through, 9/10

23 degree water....makes you want to linger longer.

Easy 9/10. Best autumn I can remember for constant swell. There's been maybe only three days so far below two feet. The rest of its been mostly head high or well overhead.

How's the local banks Iggy, couple times I have driven past for the good conditions, it has looked pretty average...

hows that dicky knee going Loof.....have you been diligent with your rehab.
You're not getting any younger mate, don't let it slip away from you.

Drailed wrote:How's the local banks Iggy, couple times I have driven past for the good conditions, it has looked pretty average...

The banks are sublime. Just very tide dependant for now (lower the better) but only due to the long period swells at the moment. If it was running 8 secs those banks would be reeling off like points.

Hatchnam wrote:will give get to give this 6'10 puppy it's first run in the 6foot plus region. based on how it went on saturday (cutting like a scalpel through bumpy double overhead peaks) it should eat it up no probs.

If you ever think about selling this board mate, I've got first dibs. What are the dimensions out of curiosity, and what size fin you running in it?

Hi Jet. Thanks but I will never sell it. Big call, but it's the best surfboard I've ever owned or ridden. magic on waves like Sandon, voodoo, and Cronulla point. Or anything head high and bigger with power and a wall to tear down. There's volume in the board, but there's nothing corky about it, the whole board looks and feels refined. Its like a fine scalpel when you put it on rail. you can really drive hard through turns and cover good ground. I fkn love it. 6'10 x 20 x 2 5/8. With a 7.5 inch flex fin that I place dead centre along the fin box, and the little zig fins for side bites which keep the board feeling lively. ( standard sized side bites stiffen the board too much, and I don't want to surf the board as a 2+1, it's long and sleek and goes best with drawn out single fin type carves )

Steve, yeah thanks for the reminder - have been slacking off a bit, back into it yesterday and today.

Gutted to be missing this time of year in the water, it really is my favourite season, everything about it is perfect. Swell, winds, day and night temperature.

Injuries are an opportunity to come back stronger.

Hatchnam wrote:Hi Jet. Thanks but I will never sell it. Big call, but it's the best surfboard I've ever owned or ridden. magic on waves like Sandon, voodoo, and Cronulla point. Or anything head high and bigger with power and a wall to tear down. There's volume in the board, but there's nothing corky about it, the whole board looks and feels refined. Its like a fine scalpel when you put it on rail. you can really drive hard through turns and cover good ground. I fkn love it. 6'10 x 20 x 2 5/8. With a 7.5 inch flex fin that I place dead centre along the fin box, and the little zig fins for side bites which keep the board feeling lively. ( standard sized side bites stiffen the board too much, and I don't want to surf the board as a 2+1, it's long and sleek and goes best with drawn out single fin type carves )

Sounds epic... and at those dimensions it would definitely fin in my triple (fits 4 boards) wheelie travel bag with my 3 other shorties.