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Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:49 pm
by steve shearer
Rasta had come in when I went out yesterday.

He'd just come out today before I got my last wave.

Joel Fitz and Glen Curtis got the best ones yesterday.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:56 pm
by offshore1
...and they say busdrivers can't surf.
Pffft
well done Steve.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:58 pm
by steve shearer
anyone getting waves down there?

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:00 pm
by Grooter
Looks incredible fellas, hope you're having a blast up there.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:19 pm
by Hatchnam
Sounds and looks epic Steve .

Just came in from a solid two and a half session on this. At the start there was only four others out, and then gradually it ended up pretty packed out.

I got four waves all up. Played it precariously, patient. Two walled up screamers, one burgery one that stopped short, and one super late take off that I pearled on after being held in the lip by the stiff offshore. Also wore a couple getting held inside.

There were some fkn sizeable waves out there.

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Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:37 pm
by steve shearer
what'd you ride Iggs?

is that a protected spot?

looks like the wind would be better for a left?

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:55 pm
by Hatchnam
Stiff cross/offshore . Yep there is and was a left breaking the other side of the point. Uncontested, empty, but even more wind affected as it's more exposed (doesn't wrap into a point)

Rode my eight foot pintail. Went well, but in hindsight I'd have probably caught more waves on the seven foot outer islands I had in the back of the wagon.

The strong wind made the take offs late and critical, therefore a shorter board would've been more suited (less run up needed, take off later etc).

But still well happy with what I got out there. And to come in unscathed aside from one sea urchin.

2nd reef was out there charging pretty hard. Lots of screamers, lots of punishment being dealt out, loads of snapped boards.

Deepest section inside the point was an uber thick yawning three second barrel, then closeout. No takers on that understandably. But fk the deep inside was so thick. Literally you could've driven a truck thru it

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:01 pm
by Drailed
Photos rarely do it justice do they.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:08 pm
by Hatchnam
Drailed wrote:Photos rarely do it justice do they.
Yep. Hard to gauge it off the pics. No doubt there'll be loads up on the net soon though so you'll get more perspective

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:25 pm
by 2nd Reef
Hatchnam wrote:Stiff cross/offshore . Yep there is and was a left breaking the other side of the point. Uncontested, empty, but even more wind affected as it's more exposed (doesn't wrap into a point)

Rode my eight foot pintail. Went well, but in hindsight I'd have probably caught more waves on the seven foot outer islands I had in the back of the wagon.

The strong wind made the take offs late and critical, therefore a shorter board would've been more suited (less run up needed, take off later etc).

But still well happy with what I got out there. And to come in unscathed aside from one sea urchin.

2nd reef was out there charging pretty hard. Lots of screamers, lots of punishment being dealt out, loads of snapped boards.

Deepest section inside the point was an uber thick yawning three second barrel, then closeout. No takers on that understandably. But fk the deep inside was so thick. Literally you could've driven a truck thru it
Sick session, eh Hatchman? Saw some incredible waves ridden. That section off the peg was nuts, though it started getting too low. Time to eat bananas and fuel up for the late.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:27 pm
by Drailed
Hatchnam wrote:
Drailed wrote:Photos rarely do it justice do they.
Yep. Hard to gauge it off the pics. No doubt there'll be loads up on the net soon though so you'll get more perspective
Was it at a place that rhymed with deadlambs?

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:32 pm
by Hatchnam
Nup. It's hardly a secret spot. But I won't name it.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:42 pm
by alexisanchez
steve shearer wrote:Dropped from yesterday but some top to bottom 8-10ft sets freight training the length of the Point.
I felt more rattled than yesterday, which seemed comical and outlandish.
This was just pure focussed power and and a 20knot WNW to NW devil wind came up strong, making take-offs insane freefalls.

I thought I'd lost my soul when I got out there, I couldn't breathe properly, I had no strength in my limbs. The current was dragging you deeper into the peak, the takeoff on the back button was really challenging and technical, no easy entry.
Got a big wide one to start and got caught behind, big long hold down, few on the head.

Few more then a straight up 10 foot bomb to end the surf,big freefall, vertical drop with air underneath me, locked in the whole ride, screaming on a 7'6", one of the waves of my life.

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That looks insane Steve! Would love to hear more

In hindsight why do you think you got the forecast so wrong? Not being a prick but I'm a crap at best reading the maps and I felt sure that Sunday was going to be on up here.You were really down on it for a few days before as were a few other weather nerds. I don't understand why

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:54 pm
by Beanpole
Great stuff Steve. Not every day you can say that you got one of the best waves of your life.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:07 pm
by steve shearer
couple reasons, but primarily I thought it would be a bog standard storm swell for longer than it was and that storminess would destroy the sand banks.

as it turned out, the storm moved off quickly enough and cleaned up quickly enough that we got classic big surf instead of a stormy mess.

I still think there will be a hangover from the event, but for now it's as good as it gets.

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:19 pm
by Straighthanded
Can't see it either salt man!

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:22 pm
by alexisanchez
Came over Freshwater to this Sunday morning. A couple of hectic hours with just two of us out
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Back for some banana pancakes and a drive over to look at DI around the low. Gave it a miss and came back to a crowded lineup in the arvo. About 8 out. Fcuk it was good as far as the eye could see
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Some really thick square ones and solid on the sets. Just trying to survive and jag one was it for me. Out the back was ok but getting there was intense. Only made a few in the arvo but they were keepers. Me trying to scrape over one

Re: The big NE swell this weekend

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:25 pm
by Hatchnam
Just been watching some of today's replays of the cape solander comp. never seen such hidings, such slabs, ever. Perhaps it's the northerly swell making it even more mutant. Some of the waves were Backwash 12 footers that were almost entirely all lip. Fk that nonsense.