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Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:11 pm
by Trev
alakaboo wrote:This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5
I know you guys think this is good but I've never seen the "good" in making less waves than you don't.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:51 pm
by crabmeat thompson
Trev wrote:alakaboo wrote:This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5
I know you guys think this is good but I've never seen the "good" in making less waves than you don't.
I'm not sure many longboaders 'get it' trev. And that's no disrespect to your craft and what you do.
The best barrels in my life are the ones where I've paddled over the ledge, heart in my mouth, and at that very moment in time I've given myself about a 0.00001% chance of making it, but despite the odds I've come out the other side upright.
Its all the beatings your body takes, it's all the air your lungs require but don't have as you get steamrolled a storey under water, and your willingness to rinse and repeat this process until you come out the other side ... that's what makes it so fcuking sweet when you make one in about 15 when it's super thick.
Hence the whole, just about every big wave surfer (around for the cape fear event) paddling around a kirra lineup this week like they've just been touched God ... yet it was only 4-6 foot.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:18 pm
by Trev
Braithy wrote:Trev wrote:alakaboo wrote:This swell keeps on giving.
Surfed some Kirra -esque beachies this morning. 2ft high and 5ft wide, rifling like mad. I caught about 40 waves and made less than 5
I know you guys think this is good but I've never seen the "good" in making less waves than you don't.
I'm not sure many longboaders 'get it' trev. And that's no disrespect to your craft and what you do.
Its all the beatings your body takes, it's all the air your lungs require but don't have as you get steamrolled a storey under water, and your willingness to rinse and repeat this process until you come out the other side ... that's what makes it so fcuking sweet when you make one in about 15 when it's super thick.
That's not surfing. You can do that body surfing. And not have to worry about getting hit by your board.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:24 pm
by crabmeat thompson
this is true big fella.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:56 pm
by steve shearer
well the banks are now officially shite here.....gone out to sleep with the fishes.
now lets bring some fcuking stud jewfish to the stones Huey
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 5:27 pm
by Donweather
I'm hearing ya SM.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:43 pm
by crabmeat thompson
I found a few this morning ... there's way more grief than joy though.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:58 pm
by Yuke Hunt
Braithy wrote:I found a few this morning ... there's way more grief than joy though.
Yep ... but some potential for the more fertile of imagination ... but yep non the less.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:15 am
by Nick Carroll
Trev wrote:
That's not surfing.
and trev knows surfing!
that whole swell was dog's balls down here except for Saturday morning and yesterday morning, but now shearer's banks are fcuked, it'll probably start cracking here
some good banks now for sth swells that's for sure.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:22 am
by Trev
Winter's over.
Thread closed.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 11:28 am
by LPJ
general question here, as I've been prompted* to ask when thinking about the last ECL and where I surfed compared to reports of best Kirra in years etc... Does sand on the points play a more or less equally important role in surf quality during a large windswell, close, mid and long range groundswells? You know, ceterus parabis...
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 12:37 pm
by crabmeat thompson
sand is everything up here in QLD (for our points) wind or ground swell... those funky little NE swells on the beachies when the wind goes SW is pretty much the only exception I know of.
but sand is our point's entire life source. I've seen currumbin and burleigh over the last 20 years in 4-6ft E swells with not a person out there because there's no sand for the swells to hug, just a huge hole. This usually happens post bank-busting storm episodes.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 1:36 pm
by Trev
Braithy wrote:sand is everything up here in QLD (for our points) wind or ground swell... those funky little NE swells on the beachies when the wind goes SW is pretty much the only exception I know of.
but sand is our point's entire life source. I've seen currumbin and burleigh over the last 20 years in 4-6ft E swells with not a person out there because there's no sand for the swells to hug, just a huge hole. This usually happens post bank-busting storm episodes.
Except at MY point.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 2:06 pm
by swvic
Trev wrote:Winter's over.
Thread closed.
Piss off to Spring
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 2:10 pm
by Trev
swvic wrote:Trev wrote:Winter's over.
Thread closed.
Piss off to Spring
But it's not Spring yet.
That vicco dude, whatsisname said so.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:11 pm
by crabmeat thompson
Trev wrote:Braithy wrote:sand is everything up here in QLD (for our points) wind or ground swell... those funky little NE swells on the beachies when the wind goes SW is pretty much the only exception I know of.
but sand is our point's entire life source. I've seen currumbin and burleigh over the last 20 years in 4-6ft E swells with not a person out there because there's no sand for the swells to hug, just a huge hole. This usually happens post bank-busting storm episodes.
Except at MY point.
It's more of a blubbering mess than a point, tbh TardG.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:18 pm
by Trev
Braithy wrote:Trev wrote:Braithy wrote:sand is everything up here in QLD (for our points) wind or ground swell... those funky little NE swells on the beachies when the wind goes SW is pretty much the only exception I know of.
but sand is our point's entire life source. I've seen currumbin and burleigh over the last 20 years in 4-6ft E swells with not a person out there because there's no sand for the swells to hug, just a huge hole. This usually happens post bank-busting storm episodes.
Except at MY point.
It's more of a blubbering mess than a point, tbh TardG.
Sure is.
Re: winter fourteen
Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 6:37 pm
by crabmeat thompson
I got your back buddy