winter fourteen

What surfer doesn't care about the weather? Who hasn't predicted the arrival of a new swell? Do all of it here!

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el rancho
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by el rancho » Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:54 am

kirra is not an 'easy' wave to surf when its on. sometimes you get a fatter section that lets you in, but mostly you gotta fly over the ledge and get a rail in fast. plus when you get eaten on the sandbar you really get eaten. I snapped a fin out the other day, I dove away from my board yet it was so violent it still ended up smashing into my foot and that was that.

plus some of the beach breaks on the far northern coast are among the heaviest and challenging you'll find.

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Hatchnam
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:09 am

I get what ur saying but based on 20 yrs up there and 10 yrs down here I disagree.

Sure, Kirra can be razor fast and challenging. But it's a lot more predictable and manageable than some of the shifty uneven raw and full volumed waves down here.

And some of the beachies down here will easy hold a legit 8ft + wave, come out of deeper water and then break like a bombora but at high speed and full density.

There's good and bad with both. But if I had a choice at the very moment with the conditions at present, I'd pick up north.
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:25 am

kirra's predictability is a little misguided, imo. I mean when it's rifling down the line like it's mechanical it looks predictable and easy, the sun's out its all a bit idyllic ...

... but it's a heavy wave. I remember a run of swell in about 2007 where I snapped all 4 of my boards in two days and I was surfing super conservatively. It felt like every wipeout you'd snap a board. I remember being down about it, then I learned between joel and mick they'd snapped 15+ boards during that same swell.

I remember kalani robb and Machado back in the early 2000's during a mackingly thick 6-8ft swell... one of the last true kirra swells ... they were just staring at kirra for hours, not game to paddle in it. Not knowing if they could make the drops on their backhands. They'd just watched kelly get buckled on a super thick one and have to swim back in, and they said 'fcuk that' and went back to their hotel.

on scale of 10 for difficulty, I'd give kirra an 7-7.5 at 4-6ft but over 6ft it's 9. easy.
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:35 am

Probably one of the worse hidings I've had was at double overhead Kirra. Late take off, pulled in deep, put the end section of the tube pinched off before I could squeeze out. Then cartwheeled and driven down flat onto the sandbank and got absolutely butchered.
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by petulance » Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:44 am

Hatchnam wrote:
petulance wrote:^^^
What, those points are better than Bondi and Bronte? ;)
Mate. I'd be lucky surf those spots once every 2 years.
But the points are mind-bendingly perfect. They're surreal. Easy waves to surf that lend themselves to a higher level of performance, by default. On the points up there, your challenges are the sweep, the paddle, and the crowds, and not the actual 'waves'. Whereas down here, your bigger challenges are the sheer criticality and dynamics of the waves themselves.
I have found that Wanda / Greenhills and some of the mellower reef breaks in Indo are much easier to surf than the Bra. Less critical, fuller and there is usually a defined channel to paddle out. Haven't had to deal much with sweep at the breaks I have been to.
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el rancho
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by el rancho » Thu Aug 28, 2014 10:05 am

the bank at kirra is shallow as fuck around big groyne

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by alakaboo » Thu Aug 28, 2014 10:18 am

The chance of me ever getting a barrel at big Kirra could be measured only with the use of the Hadron Collider.

There are the points, and then there is low tide Kirra. It isn't even in the same league.
It evokes the same feelings to me as Pipeline, beautiful and mind-bendingly perfect. I dreamt about surfing them for a decade but when I saw them in full flight I wanted no piece of them.

Petulance the only thing that I've surfed in the Sydney-ish region that compares to the sand bottom points is Matticus' local on a big NE groundswell. Though I gather Ottway has some analogues nearby.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:18 am

The threat of punishment on the sand points is being drilled by a thick lip onto a shallow as shit sandbank. Here with the reef slabs and full volume beachies it's more about being crushed by sheer water volume then held down til your blue. Personally, I find the latter more challenging . Less perfect and more volatile waves = more room for error = greater chance of getting your arse handed to you.
The reef points down here don't even come close to the perfect of northern sand points. Voodoo as a reef break however is both mutant and insane. But even that now had become a crowded circus. Even midweek.
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:43 am

to be really honest ... surfing is a shit pastime with the amount of people now doing it.
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by swvic » Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:48 am

And you cnuts reckon I should move north

My last half a dozen surfs I've known everyone in the water. Most on any of them days was 6 people. Sure, it's not Kirra or Snapper, but it has been pretty fcuken good
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by crabmeat thompson » Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:06 pm

I miss surfing with the same crew every time, every place in tassie.

never more than 10 people, unless you had a proper groundswell and one of the novelty points were working.

I just miss tassie.
Drailed wrote:Sound like a load of cunts to me Trev.

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foamy
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by foamy » Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:38 pm

In SE QLD, boardriding is mostly a very ordinary experience.
The waves are often nice, the danger is very low, the water is warm and intensely blue. It is all so remarkably pleasant. Unfortunately, others have noticed this and these days the crowds are usually ridiculous. 15 people on a marginal, inconsistent micro peak. 350 people on a point when it is good, on a Tuesday.

Mind you, when there is swell the intensity of the northerly sweep can be quite hilarious.

I used to surf draining overhead Kirra in the seventies. I didn't find it scary. Though I was in my teens. You'd get the occasional thumping. That was fun, like a short, very vicious, pillow fight. I was confident in my wipeout skills. I played footy in those days and my worst Kirra pummeling was not as bad as half the tackles I gave and received. I haven't surfed overseas. The only time I have been really scared in the surf was in Sydney.

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by ctd » Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:04 pm

Big waves in So Cal as well

http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-m ... story.html#

Check out the crowds watching - maybe there is a market...

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http://mashable.com/2014/08/27/laird-ha ... hoot-pier/

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steve shearer
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by steve shearer » Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:32 pm

swvic wrote:And you cnuts reckon I should move north

My last half a dozen surfs I've known everyone in the water. Most on any of them days was 6 people. Sure, it's not Kirra or Snapper, but it has been pretty fcuken good

And yet not even a hundred miles as the crow flies south there were uncrowded Pointbreaks for the taking.

Braithy I spoke to a bloke from tassie on the weekend who'd flown up for the swell.

He said the east coast is inconsistent as fcuk, those novelty points break once a year and are stupidly crowded when they do.

And the water is freezing.

Maybe you just need to expand the horizons a little. The Goldy is a joke, we all know that.
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swvic
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by swvic » Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:45 pm

If I was to ever go Steve, it certainly would be at least 100 miles south of Qld

I'm also realising it's not just about the paddling anymore. If I get hammered with my arm not pulled in against my body, my shoulder hurts like fcuk
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by alakaboo » Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:48 pm

ctd wrote:Laird shoots the pier - on a SUP
http://mashable.com/2014/08/27/laird-ha ... hoot-pier/
The last 30s of that film are excellent.

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swvic
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Re: winter fourteen

Post by swvic » Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:54 pm

The last 5 or so seconds spoiled it a bit for me
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?

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Re: winter fourteen

Post by alakaboo » Thu Aug 28, 2014 2:13 pm

Yeah, that was a bad doggie

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