Big Swells

What surfer doesn't care about the weather? Who hasn't predicted the arrival of a new swell? Do all of it here!

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chris_010
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Big Swells

Post by chris_010 » Fri Sep 23, 2005 10:39 pm

Just curious as to how often the east coast of aus would experience massive swells of over 20ft? Maybe the old timers can recall the last time something like this occur? What would be needed weather wise in our region for such an event to occur, ben?

birubi

Post by birubi » Sat Sep 24, 2005 6:55 am

depends how you mesure that 20ft if your measuring down the back harcore style then never

Jamoe
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Post by Jamoe » Sat Sep 24, 2005 7:07 am

ON the wall at my parents place at terrigal we have a picture of a freak 30ft wave breaking off The Haven around new years 1985. it is massive, completely unfathomable, especiually if your used to what terrigal is normally like

thermalben
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Post by thermalben » Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:36 am

Large East Coast swells are generated by either East Coast Lows or Tropical Cyclones (or a significant Tasman Low if it's positioned favourably). These are much different to the swell generating systems of the Southern Ocean, and therefore require a different set of circumstances to evolve favourably for us to receive large swells. That is, they need to to be near-stationary for a couple of days and surface wind speeds need to be very strong. Also, as these systems usually occur as "one-off" events, we're much more likely to see waves in this size range if the swell source (ie the low) is located very close to the coastline. Unfortunately, this usually results in a lot of rain and windy conditions at the same time.

Compare this to WA - they're on track for a potential 20' swell later next week (Fri/Sat), but the primary swell generating system is expected to originate several thousand kilometres away. However, the key difference here is that several strong frontal systems are likely to precede the main low in the 3-5 days prior, so the ocean will already be very "active", thus requiring less effort to generate very large wave heights.
Last edited by thermalben on Sat Sep 24, 2005 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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macca202
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Post by macca202 » Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:41 am

so in summary we should drive west these holidays?

thermalben
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Post by thermalben » Sat Sep 24, 2005 1:26 pm

Yep. WA, SA and Vic are looking really good for the next two weeks. Really, really good infact.

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chris_010
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Post by chris_010 » Sat Sep 24, 2005 4:37 pm

Ah cheers for that :)

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halfy
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Post by halfy » Sat Sep 24, 2005 7:04 pm

guess its a bad time to be headin north............

ah nips

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macca202
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Post by macca202 » Sat Sep 24, 2005 7:56 pm

if got a temporarily screwed toe so i can't go for a surf anyway for the next few days. i really should start wearing shoes when i play touch footy, but then everone gets pissed off cos i'll pass on the injury :twisted:

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