RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I liked it in The Pleasure of the Text when Barthes said he most enjoys reading things that lead him to look up and think about or listen to something else.

Actually even as I said 'We do?' I thought, 'We bombed the hell out of your towns and cities, we burned your villages, we poisoned your forests and farmland, we killed two million of your young people and crippled many more! How could it not matter?' And while I don't ask my girl about the war anymo...

I said, 'We do?'

It's funny, I remember quite clearly how early on in my relationship with my girl I had asked about her family's life in Hanoi during the war, and she had said something like, 'I don't know, and it doesn't matter. Why do you Australians and Americans still keep talking about the war anyway?' http://...

Yesterday a friend from Tokyo visited and after an evening surf we sat on the floor of my room to drink beer and talk. We haven't known each other for very long, so much of our conversation was taken up by personal histories. My friend told me of taking up surfing at the age of thirteen on a summer ...

Just a handful more.

Love the way Tom puts tongue in cheek right after saying it was the biggest wave for sure, couldn't decide whether because of the rice ball wrapped in seaweed he's eating or because... well, why do people put tongue in cheek?

that's the way to live a life

dream and take a chance!

get yer grubby hands off me beanpole ya deckscrubber, can't ya see i'm living it up here! surfing is not really full of bullshit - people are always facing real challenges and truths in surfing arggghhh!!!

'lonely impulse of delight,' wooo!!!

how's this thing by w.b. yeats - could almost have been for eddie aikau, but... no! and not that i understand the last line, but what the hell - what a cracker of a poem! I know that I shall meet my fate Somewhere among the clouds above; Those that I fight I do not hate Those that I guard I do not l...