RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Hey everyone, really enjoying reading all the views on this all time classic surf morality question. To me it seems as if the commercial exploitation of the surfing image is kinda the price of being involved in modern human society. It's a very thick web and we're all tangled up in it, and trying to...

Re the Wanker Factor, well, maybe, but it's not a very effective wanking technique, is it? It's not like anyone notices the presence or absence of a leggie until you fall off. Not exactly a big win in the Status department. Not like, say, carrying a Fish with big wooden twinfins down the beach, or d...

I surf without a leggie a lot! Just to enjoy the freedom, the lack of tangle-factor and the minor sense of risk taking. Will even do it at rocky or big surf zones if I'm feeling particularly sure of myself. Swimming or bodysurfing after your board, to me, is just part of the fun. I'm a bit shy of en...

My beach's latte will beat your beach's fricken latte any day of the week!!

Bloody oath the flat spell's getting to everyone. If it keeps going this way, yeah, Johnno, we might have to play car park golf.

Come on, May, kick in with one of those blood-curdling east coast lows, send us a swell so big I forget my own name, date of birth, the lot!

I reckon there's a different set of reasons for each individual session: killer conditions, a new board, the sun's oout, god knows what. But generally I reckon I surf in order to stay in contact with myself -- with a big part of myself. It makes me think of the craziest shit imaginable. Last time a ...

I love wipeouts, but I hate 'em too, both at the same time. How screwed up is that.

Hi Buzzy, It's a wonderful quest you're on. We're all on it one way or another - we all know we can surf better, and when we do, we think we're Kings. Then the next day we're back to floundering. From my own observations, good surfing comes back to some clearly definable basics: 1. A relaxed upper b...

I hate leggie strings. They're like socks in the laundry; they just kinda ... disappear, for no reason. No other surfing device does this. Wax melts into your car's carpet, but it doesn' t just bloody vanish into thin air. Legropes themselves hang around even after they've broken. Don't even get me ...

"Channels", hey, the word covers a broad variety of bottom design, some of it super functional, some of it totally wacky. The most successful, and the design that seems to have survived best over the past 20 years or so: six deep channels cut "clinker" style from around two thirds of the way back ri...

I read recently something about the Formula One drivers: they have a saying to the effect that each of your children will add a second on your lap times. It made me laugh. Once upon a time, when Brock Little was still really into the big wave thing, he used to try to psychoanalyse his rivals. Brock'...

Some good stories about being scared, everyone's got 'em eh. I'm still most interested in why fear - and its aftermath - is enjoyable. This is a Bad Thing I reckon, it leads people to behave like Ross Clarke-Jones for god's sake. And yep, BigMog, it's me. As if it weren't enough pestering the crap o...

OK, look I'll get 'em going, the most scared I've personally been in the surf was at Teahupo'o in Tahiti in 1999, just on a trip over there. Teahupo'o's becoming a bit of a cliche in the mags lately -- like a cheap fear thrill -- but nothing prepares you for the place at full throttle. On this parti...