Search found 3323 matches

by Lucky Al
Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:56 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: VooDoo
Replies: 50
Views: 8183

or there's sitting on the roof if you can see the sea from your roof and lighting up, meditating wavesummoning and laughing a little. maybe taking your surfboard up, too!
by Lucky Al
Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:37 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: VooDoo
Replies: 50
Views: 8183

clif, i run a bath and sit in with a tallie and a collection of short stories or poems. then i keep drinking when i get out, and keep reading. drink a lot and read a lot, until i pass out. usually there's surf the next day.
by Lucky Al
Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:28 pm
Forum: Shortboarders only!
Topic: Fred Patacchia in Surfer Mag-pg 104
Replies: 33
Views: 9442

not to mention a surfing lover!
by Lucky Al
Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:17 pm
Forum: Shortboarders only!
Topic: Fred Patacchia in Surfer Mag-pg 104
Replies: 33
Views: 9442

this thread has been a revelation for me! i can feel myself becoming a born-again surf-mag lover!!!
by Lucky Al
Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:45 pm
Forum: Shortboarders only!
Topic: Fred Patacchia in Surfer Mag-pg 104
Replies: 33
Views: 9442

been marvelous watching this thread grow!
by Lucky Al
Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:23 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: bali
Replies: 13
Views: 4904

woo to archipelagos!
by Lucky Al
Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:21 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: bali
Replies: 13
Views: 4904

speaking of getting away from bali, how's this email a mate just sent me from somewhere in indo. looking forward to his next one in a fortnight. 'heading out to x tonight, on a piece-of-shit ferry that just came to port in y this morning. two french guys on it said the surf has been huge, and they t...
by Lucky Al
Thu Oct 05, 2006 11:52 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: bali
Replies: 13
Views: 4904

woo to every famous spot in bali still having secret moments!
by Lucky Al
Thu Oct 05, 2006 11:48 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: bali
Replies: 13
Views: 4904

woo to glassy days on the west side in the wet season!
by Lucky Al
Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:48 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: bali
Replies: 13
Views: 4904

oh man that just reminded me, if the swell's right up on christmas day there's a spot where rabbit got a ten-second barrel on the east side. see if you can get onto that before dawn, be your best christmas present ever.
by Lucky Al
Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:37 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: bali
Replies: 13
Views: 4904

if surf's flat and you want to roll, scandal towards the end of jalan dhyana pura offers perfect darkness and incredible noise from dawn to late morn. then the moon rises in denpasar towards midday, there you can keep rolling, rolling, rolling on down to benoa towards the real sunset, and all over a...
by Lucky Al
Mon Oct 02, 2006 11:26 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Watermen Two [just for nicknack]
Replies: 10
Views: 3195

exquisite meaninglessness! all that education has made you a master of the art, clif!!!
by Lucky Al
Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:00 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Indo rippers
Replies: 17
Views: 5315

you ought to read this article in transworld surf, surfscracking: http://www.transworldsurf.com/surf/feat ... 14,00.html
by Lucky Al
Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:26 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Depression
Replies: 126
Views: 29134

If someone close to you, someone you love, appears to be suffering from depression, what should you do?
by Lucky Al
Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:51 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: We Used to Surf There
Replies: 51
Views: 13932

The shot of Masato was taken by Hiroko Taniuchi and appears on the Wave Check page of the Grace surf shop website. I linked the lineup shot from the Wave Check page of the Nonkey surf shop website.
by Lucky Al
Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:48 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: We Used to Surf There
Replies: 51
Views: 13932

This shot from yesterday shows Masato Watanabe, a Kamogawa surfer ten years too young to have known Akatei. Instead he grew up surfing the fifty-metre stretch of sand between two lines of tetrapods known as Seaside, which every now and then, every now and then, has a left that pitches like this one....
by Lucky Al
Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:42 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: We Used to Surf There
Replies: 51
Views: 13932

Kamogawa still gets good on its day, just in different spots and in different ways, never so consistently as it used to at Akatei. Yesterday, for example.

Image
by Lucky Al
Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:20 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Vale Joe Engel
Replies: 16
Views: 7469

Der, and here I was wondering what connection Joe had to Monavale.