Search found 3671 matches

by alakaboo
Thu Jun 22, 2017 2:05 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

The swell energy goes into the surf, ie the wave breaks.
Or it bounces off.

It seems like you need a bit more background on how energy is contained within waves.
Try the first half of this document.
https://coastadapt.com.au/factsheets/wa ... ate-change
by alakaboo
Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:22 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 15898
Views: 1218654

Re: Where did you surf today ?

I'd be straight down to the hangliding spot in those conditions.
by alakaboo
Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:38 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

Zero.

Trev the basic bathymetry maps are available from geoscience Australia. They're in tricky formats though.
And you're right, it's the offshore reefs.
by alakaboo
Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:03 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

The offshore bar ideally is deep enough that the average swell doesn't break, but shallow enough that it can create a focal point on the shoreline. There needs to be time (distance from the shoreline) for the refraction to have a strong enough effect. As Nick said. The optimum distance and (change i...
by alakaboo
Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:32 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

I agree with both of you, sort of. I wouldn't do it for shits and giggles like Steve is sort of suggesting as the costs to do things properly are in the 10s of millions, but when there is already a plan to pump/place sand as part of a soft coastal protection strategy, why not try and do it in a way ...
by alakaboo
Tue Jun 20, 2017 4:53 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

Here are my observations of how Illuka break wall works. You have bland typical closeout bathymetry running from the breakwall along the beach. The black bathymetric lines in the diagram show the beach depth 1 metre, 2metres , 3 metres and 4 metres. http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt110/kenipini...
by alakaboo
Tue Jun 20, 2017 3:29 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

thats the mechanism Boo, I guess what I'm asking is how effective these sand slugs are at activating it? How effective, for instance, was the Cronulla sand slug? There's lot of data now from the Gold Coast where sand replenishment has a long history. Everything I've seen points to sand outlets on t...
by alakaboo
Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:54 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

. A swell that has travelled over a sand slug gets transformed into a tapered swell. Are you perfectly sure about that? Could you explain how? The effect is right but the mechanism isn't. The shallower slug bathymetry causes refraction as it slows the part of the swells that hit it more than the ad...
by alakaboo
Sat Jun 17, 2017 5:05 pm
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: swimming/paddling/misc water sports.
Replies: 95
Views: 5201

Re: swimming/paddling/misc water sports.

Trying out your Tinder taglines?
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 8:03 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

Geobags are better than sand but worse than rock for making a surfing reef, foamy. They just aren't dense enough to stay where you want in the active surf zone, and they settle a lot because they rarely get installed with a proper toe (foundation) so they get undermined. Deep in the water, with bus-...
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:18 pm
Forum: Weather & surf forecasting
Topic: MHL and what can we do about wave rider buoys?
Replies: 15
Views: 1416

Re: MHL and what can we do about wave rider buoys?

Because the data link from the buoy to onshore processing is shit.
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:16 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

No, you can't on a sandy bottom. Try and make a sandcastle that lasts past high tide next time you're at the beach. That's what they're doing, crabmeat! 400m offshore, enough to bend the lines. Tate is convinced that good beaches and surf bring tourists (he's right), so he's throwing cheques at the ...
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:14 pm
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: swimming/paddling/misc water sports.
Replies: 95
Views: 5201

Re: swimming/paddling/misc water sports.

this was the one that got me I swam as slow as I could on the first one for 1.31 I realise 1.30 is slow for good swimmers; but for 95% of people its full speed. Also makes me realise my absolute inadequacy as a swimmer fcuk, everyone's a kook compared to someone. Sometimes our coach has his super a...
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:00 pm
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: swimming/paddling/misc water sports.
Replies: 95
Views: 5201

Re: swimming/paddling/misc water sports.

Agreed, it's like reading a French recipe.

Roll the butter into the pastry.
Repeat until flaky.

I'd be pretty bloody flaky if I had to swim a second 50 on 30.5 these days.
And kicking sets can go and get fcuked in the arse with a pineapple.
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 1:56 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

We'll see. It's very expensive for a small stretch of coast, and not super popular. It'll be one of the first things dropped from a tight budget. They're going to dump a buttload of sand off Palmy, at the same time as dredging to figure out where the reef should go. Doesn't make sense to me, it'll i...
by alakaboo
Fri Jun 16, 2017 7:30 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

It's not a very complicated theory. Put sand in a pile rather than spreading it evenly, let the waves make it into a bank. I'm not on the project anymore but when this was first planned more than 4 years ago there was a lot of discussion about it, and the coastal engineers on council and those advis...
by alakaboo
Thu Jun 15, 2017 8:22 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Shearer. Boo. Come in here
Replies: 67
Views: 5350

Re: Shearer. Boo. Come in here

Yeah, but nah.