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by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:41 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Read that last paragraph and then understand why deep water equations for calculating Kj's are not appropriate.
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:39 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Waves/watwav2.html In general, based on the graph of a hyperbolic tangent, the following classification of waves for the relative depth is used (ratio of depth to wave length). 1. Waves in deep water The depth is more than half of wavelength, the hyperbolic...
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:43 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

This is a pretty good entry level Cranked.

\https://www.amazon.com/Surf-Science-Int ... 0824828917
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:09 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Well you can do what I propose or you can read this: Here's a fully calibrated forecast from the best forecaster in the world, daylight second: Pat Caldwell. DISCUSSION: SUMMARY... Short-period N swell dropping with long-period S swell rising into the weekend. DETAILED:. Mid Friday on northern shor...
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:38 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

This is because I think a swell with say 500kJs will produce similar waves at your local irrespective of whether the swell is 6' at 9s or 2' at 15s, and etc for larger kJ swells. Overall, all you need to know for most surfs is whether its under 500 (marginal for surfing) or 1000, 2000, 3000 or 4000...
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 9:37 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Surf forecast doubled the Kj reading for today here and the surf is half the size.

Please explain Cranked.
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:22 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Did you not see any of the data I posted yesterday?

Actual real data.

Would you like me to interpret it for you? I thought you liked it raw.

Aren't you on holidays?
by steve shearer
Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:40 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Have you not been reading?

Is west east in Wales?
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:19 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

that was Chris cote.
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 4:46 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

btw, I think that 8000kj call for next Mon is a classic case of a model spack out.

my call: windy, pushy, 6ft S swell.
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:52 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

It's a good question.

Cranked seems to have calibrated it in his mind as a measure of the maximum theoretical limit he feels comfortable surfing.

After over a month of checking surf forecast daily I haven't been able to peg it onto any kind of actual reality out in the surf zone.
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:25 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Cranked 8470 kj forecast for Lennox head next Monday.

any idea what that means?
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:09 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Here's a fully calibrated forecast from the best forecaster in the world, daylight second: Pat Caldwell. DISCUSSION: SUMMARY... Short-period N swell dropping with long-period S swell rising into the weekend. DETAILED:. Mid Friday on northern shores has breakers above the summer average from 000-030 ...
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:04 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Cranked wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:57 am
I assume its the same as the error margins for swell height and period as that is what its derived from
Sure, have you worked it out, ie calibrated it for the forecast site you use?
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:35 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Cranked have you developed an understanding of the error margins in the Kj estimates, and more importantly the various scenarios that lead to those errors?
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:07 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Cranked have you ever used it at any other spots than the Bukit?
by steve shearer
Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:27 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 4265
Views: 327141

Re: Just general surfing stuff

First principles.

A swell is the energy that moves through the ocean. It has a certain set of equations to describe it.

A breaking wave is what we ride. A different set of equations describe it.