Search found 3031 matches

by Lucky Al
Fri Feb 10, 2006 5:08 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Pieces of a Board
Replies: 12
Views: 1968

http://www.japansurf.com/photos/nose1.JPG The nose, broken against a wall in a narrow lane on the ride back to work from a lunch break at Jl. Padma. The dog up the lane, which always barked madly at anyone's approach, barked madly as I approached, and, startled, I veered… Usually I kept the dog in ...
by Lucky Al
Fri Feb 10, 2006 5:06 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Pieces of a Board
Replies: 12
Views: 1968

http://www.japansurf.com/photos/ragdollbottom.JPG I was introduced to Roberto by Harry, my workmate for a year and nemesis in the surf forever more, half-English and half-Italian – and therefore I called him Giuseppe. A hothead at the wheel, Harry was especially fond of speeding around a bend in th...
by Lucky Al
Fri Feb 10, 2006 5:03 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Pieces of a Board
Replies: 12
Views: 1968

Pieces of a Board

http://www.japansurf.com/photos/shaper.JPG Made in Italy by Lucio Valdabasso and bought for a good price in Bali five years ago from a surf-stoked Italian entrepreneur named Roberto. Roberto owned several villas and a restaurant in Seminyak, and lived in a huge house of his own outlandish design am...
by Lucky Al
Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:57 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Massive Irish Waves
Replies: 37
Views: 4076

The wave reminds me of a beautiful girl I once knew's collarbone, but oh that I were young again and held her in my arms.
by Lucky Al
Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:37 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Massive Irish Waves
Replies: 37
Views: 4076

that just made my hair stand on end
by Lucky Al
Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:49 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Whats up with the surf mags???
Replies: 37
Views: 6025

I mean a surfing magazine ought to reflect or critique surfers' positions in the wider world, encouraging in us an appreciation of diverse experiences and ideas and an awareness of the economic and political processes and events that affect us, our families and friends, and our fellow world citizens...
by Lucky Al
Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:34 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Whats up with the surf mags???
Replies: 37
Views: 6025

Be nice to read much less about surfing in a surfing mag too, I reckon.
by Lucky Al
Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:55 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Whats up with the surf mags???
Replies: 37
Views: 6025

Were older surfers satisfied with Tracks in the 1970s and 1980s?
by Lucky Al
Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:43 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: The Flying Spaghetti Monster
Replies: 19
Views: 2316

The fact that box jellyfish have twenty-four eyes, four parallel brains and sixty arseholes might seem to constitute evidence in support of the FSM fellow's argument. Anyway, let's hope his efforts help bring America back from the edge of complete insanity.
by Lucky Al
Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:09 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Books
Replies: 16
Views: 1962

Bit harsh, Clif. Reckon he chose his words carefully enough.
by Lucky Al
Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:34 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: The Flying Spaghetti Monster
Replies: 19
Views: 2316

Don't forget Gambale's (1998) experiments, which showed the popular belief about cats to be true for drop heights ranging from six feet down to two feet, but not true for a drop height of one foot.
by Lucky Al
Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:32 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Books
Replies: 16
Views: 1962

Another one to look out for is Remembrance of Waves Past , bc. Passage below's excerpted from Vol. 1: Slater's Way . Doesn't get much better than this! 'The field open to the surfer is not a miserable sequence of take off, bottom turn, tube, cut back and pull off, but an immeasurable sea (still, alm...
by Lucky Al
Sat Jan 28, 2006 9:06 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Books
Replies: 16
Views: 1962

Come across Zero Break: an illustrated collection of surf writing, 1777-2004 by Matt Warshaw yet, bc? Got this for Chrissy, reckon it's one you'll want to get your hands on one of these days.
by Lucky Al
Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:54 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Books
Replies: 16
Views: 1962

The book by Nick Ford and David Brown Clif mentioned is subtitled 'Experience, Embodiment and Narrative of the Dream Glide', making me suspect it might be filled with the obscure ramblings and filthy outbursts of mad visionaries and homosexuals. I'll be keeping an eye open for it in my library.
by Lucky Al
Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:38 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Books
Replies: 16
Views: 1962

doing research for a book yourself bc, or no such ambitions and just acquired collection over years out of interest?
by Lucky Al
Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:55 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Books
Replies: 16
Views: 1962

I'm into surf books but don't have any. Collecting's no good unless you share as well as collect. Kindly send me Mr Sunset, Maverick's, The Encyclopedia of Surfing and... that ought to to do for month of February. I'll return within a month and if you're interested in the meantime loan you Tony Butt...
by Lucky Al
Tue Jan 10, 2006 5:37 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Writing
Replies: 4
Views: 911

This isn't surf writing, just something I came across in the library this morning. It contains references to surfers, sort of. I've spent the last three weeks in Seattle's U. District, walking back and forth between my girl's place and the University of Washington, where she's writing her dissertati...
by Lucky Al
Sat Jan 07, 2006 5:00 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Writing
Replies: 4
Views: 911

Come to think this might be more interesting and livelier if entitled 'Best Surf Writing', like the 'Best Sports Writing' anthologies we see in bookstores every year or 'Best of Tracks' used to come out every few years, so those of us with piles of old mags and vague memories of stories or essays th...