Search found 3137 matches

by Lucky Al
Mon May 15, 2006 5:23 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: who has actually met a reeeal life person from reaaal surf?
Replies: 116
Views: 13880

i know stuey. met him at a spot in shonan just south of tokyo last year, and he told me my board was a piece of shit. i was a month in japan, and he had lived there eight years. we stayed in touch after that, and he helped me out and showed me around. a most thoughtful and generous man! and a maniac...
by Lucky Al
Mon May 15, 2006 4:55 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Backhand toob-riding / pigdog legends
Replies: 10
Views: 1769

back foot and arse also come in handy - give dragging the foot on either side a few goes see what happens, and get stuck into anne's scallops to fatten up your arse.
by Lucky Al
Sun May 07, 2006 10:11 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Pramoedya Ananta Toer
Replies: 5
Views: 1213

Pramoedya Ananta Toer

This article might interest surfers who've spent a bit of time in Indo and picked up books by Indonesian writers. 'On the Death of Pramoedya Ananta Toer', by Tariq Ali The death of the writer Pramoedya Ananta Toer, who died in Jakarta on April 30, is an enormous loss to world literature. He was a le...
by Lucky Al
Sat May 06, 2006 11:23 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: For what reasons do you surf ?
Replies: 53
Views: 5335

Shun, the guy I share a house with here in Kamogawa, is twenty-three and started surfing a year ago when he moved down after graduating from university in Tokyo. Shun has told me he started surfing because he wanted to become a surfer - that is, a person at once stoic and hedonistic, corageous and c...
by Lucky Al
Wed May 03, 2006 3:09 pm
Forum: Shortboarders only!
Topic: Sliding Out On Turns
Replies: 22
Views: 3363

For a second-rower... she has a kind heart. Haven't seen her since her footy-playing days ended, so don't know whether the weight transfer was smooth or not. But let's leave her out of this, and you try to keep Nick's butter-knife analogy in mind through your turns off the pools down there.
by Lucky Al
Tue May 02, 2006 9:15 pm
Forum: Shortboarders only!
Topic: Sliding Out On Turns
Replies: 22
Views: 3363

'Kissing cousins' sounds sweet! Sure wish I'd had one: my cousins couple of boys just beat the shit out of each other every Christmas, and their older sister played footy all year round. Cutting-butter stuff's nice, too. Makes me want to go out right now and bury a rail.
by Lucky Al
Tue May 02, 2006 9:04 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Anzac Day
Replies: 113
Views: 11821

Don't go, Merkin - stick it out with us!
by Lucky Al
Tue May 02, 2006 2:19 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: cameras gone
Replies: 118
Views: 14451

Hearing ya, Clif!
by Lucky Al
Mon May 01, 2006 10:45 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: HOOOT!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 5503

This is the letter to Tracks I was reminded of a couple weeks ago - just managed to dig it up tonight: 'If someone does something radical or gets creamed while you're paddling out, hoot! It makes you feel good, it makes them feel good, and it raises the level of friendliness in the water. Pretty soo...
by Lucky Al
Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:49 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Strangest thing you have seen floating in the surf?
Replies: 90
Views: 9451

Three dead bodies but no tales of mystery and imagination: a poor show!
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:57 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Strangest thing you have seen floating in the surf?
Replies: 90
Views: 9451

Bali: I think late 1998 or early 1999 they built the road to Pulau Serangan and filled in the land to build the Turtle Island resort. And a ship came aground, right there! But I could be mistaken: the ship might have come aground a little unright there, and before the road and landfill were built. I...
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:03 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Mags
Replies: 38
Views: 4735

Get those bastards in here so we can talk to 'em and get 'em to explain what's up!!!
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 28, 2006 6:00 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Mags
Replies: 38
Views: 4735

Tracks meant too much to me when I was a kid for me to give up on it now. I'll keep looking forward to the day when it becomes a great surfing magazine again.
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 28, 2006 4:54 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Strangest thing you have seen floating in the surf?
Replies: 90
Views: 9451

Can't drop that bomb without writing a good story on the side first, Nick!
by Lucky Al
Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:23 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Mags
Replies: 38
Views: 4735

surely current tracks staff are giving it their all, but wonder if they're making their ideal mag or doing things they'd rather not under pressure from publisher, advertisers or even readers. thirty-eight thousand issues come out every month so they must be doing the right thing by a decent-sized gr...
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:18 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Back to Surfing
Replies: 20
Views: 2595

Flat in my neck of the woods. Yesterday worked on the old longboard been using sometimes since moved here and found it standing unused in shed out back. About third of the deck was lifting off, so I cut out a 50cm x 100cm patch and put a couple of new layers down. I'm a shithouse ding fixer, and it'...
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:02 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Surf Mags
Replies: 38
Views: 4735

I read it religiously from early 1983 up until Gary Dunne became editor in I forget when, around 1990 I think. I don't know what went wrong after that or where to lay the blame for decline in quality, as surely it wasn't only individual editors blew it, must have been other factors contributed. Have...
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:39 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Anzac Day
Replies: 113
Views: 11821

My mistake, Ron - I meant to say 'they'. I'd better add in order not to make too many enemies that I also hold opinions which conflict with those I've already expressed here, but believe that at a time when young Australians seem to have war drums beating in their ears again the loud pronouncement o...