Search found 2939 matches

by Lucky Al
Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:14 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Anzac Day
Replies: 113
Views: 9779

Oh, the power and the passion. Better to live on your feet under the protection of US total spectrum dominance - but you'll have to turn around and lift your arse every now and then, as the Master demands. Better than die on your knees, I suppose. What the hell have Australians to be proud of?! A la...
by Lucky Al
Mon Apr 24, 2006 8:44 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Anzac Day
Replies: 113
Views: 9779

It is foolish and dangerous to think and say that freedoms were won through war. The freedom won through war is the rarest exception: it is the rule for war to curtail the freedoms of all concerned. War ruins individuals physically, psychologically and socially. It corrupts societies by making them ...
by Lucky Al
Mon Apr 24, 2006 2:45 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Anzac Day
Replies: 113
Views: 9779

Real remembrance and reflection on ANZAC Day must give rise to fury at the politicians, industrialists and media moguls who cajoled and lied and made war seem necessary or attractive to ill-informed young men, who sent them to slaughter and to be slaughtered far from home, who gained power or econom...
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:06 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Realsurf on National News (channel 10).
Replies: 75
Views: 5995

Who are these shiftless, craven scandalmongers? If they had any sense of ethical conduct or pride in their profession they would introduce themselves to us and clearly state their intentions before asking us for permission to quote. Surely they had ideals and were eager to do a good job at journalis...
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 21, 2006 1:11 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: heres one for you pingers
Replies: 91
Views: 8675

a few years ago in sumbawa i hung out with two spanish surfers whose courage among the waves was matched in greatness only by their clumsiness on boards. their names were sancho and paco, and in their company i laughed a lot. they had a plan, which they often whispered about and repeatedly but futil...
by Lucky Al
Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:41 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: How many years have you all been surfing?
Replies: 70
Views: 5868

Since 1979 on a corkie (with single large rubber fin) and 6'3" MR twinny! Four years later found a 5'4" Byrne four-channel swallow-tail thruster (with fin box, which over the years saw five or six fins fitted, including a wing-fin) secondhand for $90 in Byrne's little old shop in Fairy Meadow, then ...
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:20 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: HOOOT!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4239

Haha, gotta toughen up! Support in the barrel!!!
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:19 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: HOOOT!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4239

Support in the barrel? Okay!
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:48 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: HOOOT!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4239

I've always hooted as I've remembered letter to Tracks early '80s expressed this exact same sentiment.
by Lucky Al
Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:46 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: HOOOT!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4239

Haha, I'm hooting as I walk out the door and ride my bike down the street to check the surf: OOOWEEE!!!
by Lucky Al
Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:36 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: old or young...or inbetween
Replies: 105
Views: 7288

Thirty-two. No real luck or success so far, just carrying on anyhow. Happy to say feel quite young, except for when I'm sitting in a class full of eighteen-year-olds. Actually even then I feel quite young: kids can be so serious, can grow up so fast! I remember a night when I was twenty-one. I sat a...
by Lucky Al
Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:42 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

Just occurred to me maybe doesn't matter where I'm from, if I can convince funding body to give me money to live in Narrabeen for year or so, get right people to open up and read right stuff in local archives oughta be able to do as reasonable a job as anyone. Maybe history of North Narrabeen does n...
by Lucky Al
Sun Apr 16, 2006 2:17 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

Nice suggestion, MakoShark. And really appreciate how you went ahead and wrote half the book proposal for me. With just a little elaboration and sections on rationale, readership and further market considerations should be ready for submission to publishers. Cheers! Seriously though I'm not the one ...
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 14, 2006 10:07 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

I think I should step back from 'intellectualising'. My sense of knowing what I mean when I use the term has disappeared, to be replaced by a humming in my ears. Still, I have to say I love well-written history. There are mountains of bullshit out there in academia, to be sure. But the gold is there...
by Lucky Al
Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:42 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

That's not a dead end. This is a dead end: 'The point of surfing is surfing.' Intellectualising surfing is not trying to turn it into something else: it's asking questions about it and sharing ideas about it with others. Maybe many of the questions are stupid and the ideas crap, but what the hell we...
by Lucky Al
Thu Apr 13, 2006 10:50 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

I thought it would be clear that Muggeridge meant to say the only pleasure of living is that every wave should be surfed, every barrel pulled into, every line across a wave's face, irrespective of its direction, pursued to the uttermost limits that human ingenuity, courage and understanding can take...
by Lucky Al
Thu Apr 13, 2006 10:35 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

Gidget came out in 1959, and suddenly Malibu was packed. Imagine suddenly having to share a spot you'd been surfing with a handful of mates for years with a crowd of people who'd taken up surfing because they saw Gidget . Isn't it at least a little reasonable to refer to such change as 'decline' or...
by Lucky Al
Thu Apr 13, 2006 8:13 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Memories Fraught with Ambivalence!!!
Replies: 46
Views: 4565

Ah yeah, so now I have three novels by Terry Southern, two by Ken Kesey and a collection of short stories by Kenneth Burke to keep me going until June, when I go back to see my girl graduate and visit that amazing library for the last time. Unfortunately I won't be able to borrow any more books, so ...