Search found 7 matches

by Frus
Sun Oct 31, 2021 2:26 pm
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: Wide eyed rubbernecks in South Africa 1980
Replies: 50
Views: 78849

Re: Wide eyed rubbernecks in South Africa 1980

The Spot.....saw guys out, pulled in. Was 4' to 5'. Place had power and a shark vibe. Lots of little fish jumping out of the water. Kind of spot where you felt better off lying on your board than dangling leg bait. Next morning...holy crap..it was huge. Paddled out to see this dude get completely su...
by Frus
Wed Oct 27, 2021 2:53 pm
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: Chicama 1980
Replies: 2
Views: 3840

Chicama 1980

Bought a one way ticket from L.A. to Lima for a solo return tereste trip to California. Chicama was a spectacular experience. First, no rain. Which meant no greenery. Add to that extreme poverty and cloudy skies. Guys name was Jimmy Dore, from Santa Monica. Prescription drugs, cocaine, and "Chapman ...
by Frus
Wed Oct 27, 2021 2:32 pm
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: Wide eyed rubbernecks in South Africa 1980
Replies: 50
Views: 78849

Re: Wide eyed rubbernecks in South Africa 1980

1980 Jeffries Bay....did you run into a guy that made custom shoes named Tony? He had a beautiful girlfriend. Made me a pair of shoes in exchange for something that I put under a postage stamp.
by Frus
Wed Oct 13, 2021 8:36 am
Forum: Travel & Health
Topic: J-Bay
Replies: 5
Views: 5787

Re: J-Bay

Camped out in a vw squareback there for 3 weeks in 1981. Had a 7'2"liddle.
What else needs to be said. Was a spectacular experience. Not just the surf, but socially.
Eventually made it back to johannesburg,sold the car, and flew to Rio.
by Frus
Fri Oct 08, 2021 2:49 pm
Forum: Logs, eggs and alternatives
Topic: Liddle Hulls
Replies: 121
Views: 84264

Re: Liddle Hulls

After you bought like five boards he used to give a discount at his shop in Agoura. First time, his shop was on Topanga blvd. Great guy.humble and funny. Refused to sell anything but surfboards and wetsuits in his shop. Saw him at a surf movie once that was all wiggling and gyrating...he got up, tur...
by Frus
Fri Oct 08, 2021 2:39 pm
Forum: Logs, eggs and alternatives
Topic: Anyone used a greenough flex fin in longboard/egg ?
Replies: 16
Views: 14917

Re: Anyone used a greenough flex fin in longboard/egg ?

Used them my entire surf lifetime,with a
Liddle.
Gotta be clean. Like a rubber band coming off the bottom.
Also not that hot if it's jacking.
In that case, stiffness "More betta"
by Frus
Fri Oct 08, 2021 2:32 pm
Forum: Logs, eggs and alternatives
Topic: Liddle Hulls
Replies: 121
Views: 84264

Re: Liddle Hulls

Rode liddles for 25 years,mainly between Rincon and Malibu. Best,fastest, most stylistic board on a peeling point.
Not so much at a beach or reef break.
Also can't handle bump.
If it's smooth and clean....wow