RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Last few days has seen an ever dropping swell but with perfect conditions. At first light I got a few good uncrowded (no-one else for the first hour) sessions with infrequent waist to chest high waves.

Yesterday evening there was no-one out from temples to the race track!

Paddling out for a quiet session this morning, as I got closer there seemed to be quite a few female surfers ripping it up, closer still and there were three photographers in the water and about ten of the best female surfers, plus the hot expats who usually surf there when it breaks. It was an orde...

I am feeling quite chilled and relaxed, listening to an Hawaiian Cafe Music mix on a first floor balcony surrounded by trees, cool breeze, and a few mates.

Surakarta? No. Good idea though, we'll make up a board right now and give it a go.

Yesterday was pretty solid in the morning, regular double overhead, some double and a half, but one seven wave set - just failed to make it over the first so got the whole lot on the head. Waves were wonky though and closing out. Caught 5 or 6, 50m rides, just one for 100m. Gave up after an hour and...

If only there was some sort of measurement of wave energy you could use as a gauge. Crabmeats penis is the new standard that I'm working on. This one has real potential. We're looking to roll it out later this year, it's currently in advanced testing in Thailand and other significant locations. She...

I love it when I pull up to check the surf and it's knee high and the pack is 300m further out from where the waves are breaking waiting patiently

Yeah, I realised this morning that my comment about Surfline overcalling the breaking waves was because I was comparing Surf Forecasts near shore swell with Surflines "breaking waves". From experience Surf Forecasts kJs were telling me that but I was waylaid by the extra swell height data and lack o...

About waist high, but it needs an offshore and bigger swell to work.

When there's no one out you don't have where people are sitting to gauge the swell size.

In the water at first light today. One other guy out. Magnificent sunrise over the cliffs, inky black clouds, yellow orange light, light rain falling. A big turtle popped up between us and looked us over, a huge ray breached, looking like Dracula or a giant bat. I paddled in after nearly an hour. No...

You disregarded gravity, for fcuks sake. And gravity. The issue I'm talking about is illustrated by Surflines predictions for yesterday at Ulus. They were saying the near shore swell was around 2m, and the surf was around 3m. Surf Forecast just gives the near shore swell (2m in this instance) and k...

Fcuking sound for Christ's sake! Very funny 'boo - there goes .00000000000000000000001% of the wave energy right there.

And as I've pointed out before, kJs are very useful and I use them as, unlike swell height, kJs remain the same irrespective of whether a wave is a deep ocean swell, near coastal swell, or a breaking wave Jesus fcuk. Your attachment to kJ doesn't even adhere to the laws of physics now? So all break...

And as I've pointed out before, kJs are very useful and I use them as, unlike swell height, kJs remain the same irrespective of whether a wave is a deep ocean swell, near coastal swell, or a breaking wave

Nick, around the bukit the Surf Forecast swell predictions are usually within 10% of the actual period/height about 90% of the time. The predicted variations during the day are usually correct within an hour or two. And the graphical user interface is excellent. There is no way I'm going to achieve ...

It's shit, all of it, cheap offshoots of source data, clumsy and badly graphed. Actual good surf forecast sites like Surfline spend a lot of time and money both accessing directly from NOAA and ECMRW and on carefully writing and re-writing their own interpretive software. They do crazy shit. They'r...

And what a day to start: double overhead, perfect swell direction, light offshores and no crowds (WAM 4.1 now forecasts crowd size)

Oh, shit!

No, no completely out of balance tootr, it'll never work.

I've consulted with my medical team - the Brazillian lady next door, a surfing mate and the matriarch of the clan where I'm staying - and the verdict is that I can resume surfing tomorrow!