Search found 1283 matches

by foamy
Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:02 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Does the over 70 award have a more raked fin or is that an optical illusion?
by foamy
Thu Dec 02, 2021 7:39 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 25583
Views: 4117054

Re: Where did you surf today ?

A mate, in his hippy period, used to camp out in the bush in Northern NSW. The F-18 pilots used to like to do a screaming low dip over their night time campfires. It would get the adrenalin pumping.
by foamy
Mon Nov 29, 2021 7:46 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Like all lists, Matt put it out there as a discussion starter. It’s people who were pointing to the future while doing stuff different to everyone else. Rather than people who were doing the same as other people but just clearly better.
by foamy
Mon Nov 29, 2021 4:52 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Surf historian, Matt Warshaw, put out his list a couple a years ago of his top 10 most advanced surfers of all time. That is, the world’s most advanced wave-riders, relative to their era. 1. George Greenough 2. Mike Stewart 3. Merv Larson 4. Wayne Lynch 5. Shaun Tomson 6. Kelly Slater 7. Laird Hamil...
by foamy
Sat Nov 27, 2021 7:48 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 25583
Views: 4117054

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Australia has a very, very, long surf coast. No surprise that the surf gets good somewhere reasonably regularly. Still, it is not where the top surfers generally go on their surf trips. There are better places.
by foamy
Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:27 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Like lining up for the bus, the line up for the Bronte rock off.

https://twitter.com/sydney_sider/status ... 28110?s=21
by foamy
Sun Nov 21, 2021 8:48 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Steve, you will be pleased to know that the 2 chaps who have produced a remastered 4K version of Morning of the Earth are planning to remaster another iconic surf film. Matt Warshaw reports “I spent part of this morning talking to Daily and Misch, who are also here in New Smyrna, and can report back...
by foamy
Sat Nov 20, 2021 10:11 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

If you don’t think everybody has an epic life, you are not paying attention.
by foamy
Sat Nov 20, 2021 7:47 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Everyone's lives are epic. Not really, in fact, hardly at all. Unless you count lives of "quiet desperation" epic. Most people are boring as batshit, and quite stupid. You’ve spent too much time in Lennox mate. At the same time you say My brain is not wired up like that at all, and I am curious abo...
by foamy
Sat Nov 20, 2021 1:00 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Yeah, Mum would describe herself as an Irishwoman ahead of being an Englishwoman. And Fanno’s dad was an Irishman.
As I recall, Fanno’s Mum’s only comment about Mick’s surfing style when he first got sponsored at about age 12.
He surfed like a duck with his arms, but he had speed.
by foamy
Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:53 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

steve shearer wrote:
Fri Nov 19, 2021 3:48 pm
I did not know she was a Pom.
Yes, a Pom. But very much an Irish Pom.
by foamy
Fri Nov 19, 2021 3:12 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

I don’t think so. I don’t think there’s even a book. It was a decent listen while I was cooking though. Her being a community nurse for the poor in Birmingham, migrating to Australia, 5 kids, the breakdown of the marriage and dealing with the repercussions of that, being a mental health services man...
by foamy
Fri Nov 19, 2021 1:51 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Mick Fanning’s mother was the guest on Conversations (ABC radio) today.
by foamy
Sat Nov 13, 2021 6:21 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

It’s good to hear an interview with a Balinese surfer. Cranked, do you know this bloke?

https://youtu.be/9ibiIYF9H3g
by foamy
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:06 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Ethan Ewing is on the WSL main tour. He qualified first at the age of 17 for the 2017 season. He seemed over-awed. He did not do well. He fell off the tour. He re-qualified for the 2021 tour. He did better. He made a couple of quarter finals. He will be on tour next year. Coincidentally, I had a lon...
by foamy
Wed Oct 27, 2021 4:08 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Here’s one for Cranked. 15 minutes of Impossibles. Includes some good drone footage.

https://youtu.be/Xm1_QbAQN2w
by foamy
Sun Oct 17, 2021 10:24 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

I don’t accept his premise, though to be fair you would have to read his book. Australians are quite risk adverse. Australians are used to the beach. A sense of risk fades with the circumstances you are used to. The context was also the young age of his children, 6 and 8. Also, he made the strong po...
by foamy
Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:04 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8454
Views: 1393433

Re: Just general surfing stuff

He’s written a whole book on the subject. Gstq, you would love it! Dare I say, need it. It would be a good one for your Christmas stocking.

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