Search found 1268 matches

by foamy
Sun Oct 17, 2021 10:24 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

I don’t accept his premise, though to be fair you would have to read his book. Australians are quite risk adverse. Australians are used to the beach. A sense of risk fades with the circumstances you are used to. The context was also the young age of his children, 6 and 8. Also, he made the strong po...
by foamy
Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:04 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

He’s written a whole book on the subject. Gstq, you would love it! Dare I say, need it. It would be a good one for your Christmas stocking.

Image
by foamy
Sun Oct 10, 2021 10:11 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Nice story about the New York Times’ Australian bureau chief and the life changes he observed from taking his kids to nippers.

https://amp.abc.net.au/article/100519180
by foamy
Tue Aug 31, 2021 1:33 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Status of New Real Surf site?
Replies: 57
Views: 1823

Re: Status of New Real Surf site?

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by foamy
Mon Aug 09, 2021 6:41 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 25486
Views: 4073422

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Shortboarders for decades have been shamelessly ruthless in using their paddling advantage over bodyboarders and body surfers.
by foamy
Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:08 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

7 surfers.
Includes Matt Formston (paraolympics, he has only 5% vision), Shakira Westdorp SUP, Harley Ingleby longboarder.
by foamy
Mon Jul 05, 2021 7:24 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 25486
Views: 4073422

Re: Where did you surf today ?

First light south maroubra. Face of the wave barely visible under the moonlight. First wave was a left, with a couple of hooks into the lip, finishing up on about two foot of water over the reef. Second wave was an overhead right, with a stall take off then cover up. Got a few more after that, most...
by foamy
Mon Jun 21, 2021 12:30 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

I didn’t watch much of it, but some of Carissa’s waves were just very great surfing. So precise, controlled, fluid and radical. The top women were easily better than 80% of the men I saw.
by foamy
Thu Jun 17, 2021 7:31 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

WD-40
by foamy
Thu Jun 03, 2021 10:48 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

This is definitely the one Nick would pick and jolly good show

Image
by foamy
Thu Jun 03, 2021 9:36 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 25486
Views: 4073422

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Where I used to stay about 1km from the beach, some nights you could hear this thrilling deep wave rumble rolling across the land. This was just about always caused by the little slappers. The little slappers occur on still nights which partly explains the noise production.
by foamy
Thu Jun 03, 2021 7:14 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Where did you surf today ?
Replies: 25486
Views: 4073422

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Those small shore slappers seem to generate more of an epic night swell noise than actual big surf.
by foamy
Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:48 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

No, fcuk the WSL, I think we should align ourselves with the ISA (International Surfing Association), They are apparently the governing body of surfing. Who knew!?
by foamy
Thu May 27, 2021 3:33 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

She does seem to get a bit rattled when she’s behind in heats these days
by foamy
Thu May 27, 2021 8:27 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Well, I always enjoy Kirra water shots. Being a SE Qlder, Kirra has been a surfing muse for a long time. Everytime I see film of good Kirra from the water, it evokes my whole memory vault of every time I’ve been out there and it’s firing. I’m back to being a wide-eyed teenager experiencing Kirra in ...
by foamy
Thu May 27, 2021 7:05 am
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

I did enjoy this clip of Steph Gilmore at Kirra from this week which Nick included in his Gold Coast swell story.

https://youtu.be/Ox1rHo-GxEM
by foamy
Sun May 23, 2021 9:11 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

That is a U.S. forecast, but it is funny, as Australia has been all metric for a very long time, Aussie surfers will keep describing surf heights in feet*. The foot is just such useful height unit. * odder still, given the fanciful surfer foot (non-imperial) which is a rather flexible measure depend...
by foamy
Sun May 23, 2021 3:40 pm
Forum: General surf discussion
Topic: Just general surfing stuff
Replies: 8337
Views: 1359050

Re: Just general surfing stuff

I didn't look pumping. Ok, smallish conditions. Only 6 heats left to run. They will run on Tuesday, whatever the conditions Tuesday’s forecast Fading 6-10’ faces AM, easing. Light cross-offshore wind. SWELL/SURF: SW swell drops off through the day but is still solid in the morning with sets running ...